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Since you're in a hot climate, I'd ignore 5W-30 and use 10W-30 or even 10W-40. You could probably do fine with straight 30 wt where you are. The engine is bound to be a little loose, anyway, with that many miles. Purolator Pure One is the filter I prefer.
 

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mobil 1 fully synthetic oil and an oversized fram PH8A is what I run on mine
 

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CluelessinMO said:
Since you're in a hot climate, I'd ignore 5W-30 and use 10W-30 or even 10W-40. You could probably do fine with straight 30 wt where you are. The engine is bound to be a little loose, anyway, with that many miles. Purolator Pure One is the filter I prefer.
I hope you're kidding with the straight 30....... that crap hasnt been used in modern cars since.... well way back when. The car DOES need some kind of lubrication prior to warm up even if warm up is one minute. Running straight weight will probably mess up your top end in no time at all. Its like running no oil to the top end at all during startup.

Your best bet would be 10W-30.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the suggestions...Frankly, I was thinking of something like 20w-50 due the high mileage on my car and the thermonuclear heat on Mexicali.

Isn't better for an old, hot car like mine to use thicker oil?

Please clarify this...
 

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Skip the Fram and go for Wix, Purlator or maybe Motorcraft.

I use to use Fram all the time but swore off them when I have one come apart due to the fact that their glued together with cardboard ends. Plugged on of my oil passages and almost cost me the engine but caught it in time.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html
 

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I use Napa gold filters(made by Wix) and Castrol syntec blend 10W-30. I have almost 210K miles on my original 3.3.
 

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Remember, your car NEEDS lubrication during STARTUP and WARM UP. I've had days when it was 100 degrees yet the engine didnt warm up for probably 2-3 minutes. The second weight rating on the oil bottle means the viscosity when your engine REACHES OPERATING temperature. The first one is BEFORE it reaches it. Ever wonder why the first one is so low? Its because your top end cant get lubricated when your engine is that cold with that thick of oil and therefore needs the "dual" viscosity oil (XwXX).

You need to take into consideration what the manufactures specs are and base it from there. If stock used 5w30 and if you use 20w50 you are quadrupling the viscosity at cold engine temp and you are significantly increasing the warm viscosity. Note that thick oil needs to get slung even further to make it to the top end to lubricate those parts (rocker arms, springs, pushrods, etc).
 

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Many people go with the urban myth to use thicker oil on older cars because it wont leak as much and it helps with the lubrication. This is as much BS as synthetic oil will leak on old cars. If your car is leaking with synthetic then a)it was going to leak very soon anyway or b)you needed to replace those gaskets/seals anyway. And if your car needs more lubrication because its "old" then its time for a rebuild.

I hate seeing people go :dunno: when they put too thick of oil in their car and they wonder why their valvetrain is shredded.
 

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I use Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic in mine, with a Mobil 1 filter. If your thinking about the heat in the summer, go with synthetic, I use synthetic because I believe, no dino oil can beat it when it comes to Hi temp operations. (And because it get's over 100 F in the summer here too).
 

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I seriously recommend Royal Purple synthetic, I have used it and had great results!
I think they have a web site, but I haven't seen it on shelves, I've had to ask to have them order it.
/[Sent wirelessly via T-Mobile Motorola v360]\
 

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THIRD DAY said:
I have a 94' 3.3L trep with 190,000 miles on her. What oil/filter do you guys recommend?

Thanks!
You could always just do as the manufacturer specifies and use 10w30. For the '94 in my sig. I used 4qts 10w30 dino + 1qt 10w30 synthetic blend. Most of the time I owned it,I used the radio active orange Fram filters, until I heard the so called horror stories about their poor construction. So only for the last 2 yrs I switched to the Fram Tough Guard filter standard size ,which is comparable to the other higher quality brands. That 3.3 never had to be taken apart for repairs. For my '03 SXT I'm using Purolator Pure One oversized with 5.5 qts 10w30 synthetic blend.
 

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I'd stick with 10w-30 also. Personally, with that many miles I'd stay with dino - just be sure to change it every 3000 miles.

You might want to check the PCV valve and hoses, too - they tend to plug up over time ...
 

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I was going to say stick with dino w. that many miles but the bluEHorizoN said that was stupid so I kept my mouth shut.....:theyareon
 

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synblend is only 5 -20% syn

go with mobil 1 10w(winter)30 and a service champ 4670 or equivlent
 

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Dr5D said:
I was going to say stick with dino w. that many miles but the bluEHorizoN said that was stupid so I kept my mouth shut.....:theyareon
I didnt mean to come off that way.... although thats probably what it exactly looked like. I just wanted to inform that old engines dont exactly need dino oil; if your car is in decent shape it can handle synthetic and if it leaks after that then people need to learn how to fix the leak instead of blaming it on synthetic (it was probably going to leak next oil change anyway).
 

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BluEHorizoN said:
I hope you're kidding with the straight 30....... that crap hasnt been used in modern cars since.... well way back when. The car DOES need some kind of lubrication prior to warm up even if warm up is one minute. Running straight weight will probably mess up your top end in no time at all. Its like running no oil to the top end at all during startup.

Your best bet would be 10W-30.
No, I wasn't kidding. As long as it's SL oil, it will have the same additives as a mutiweight, sans the long helix molecular crap that's used to make the oil act as a multiweight. (Which takes up room in the oil, but is a poor lubricant itself.) If the temps are consistently hot, you aren't going to notice any significant difference in flow that would affect lubrication. I didn't say it was first choice, but don't rule it out. Don't forget the other part of my statement--this car has a lot of miles and the engine is not as tight as a new one.
FYI--not all multigrade oils are created equal. Some resist thermal breakdown and mechanical shearing of the additive (viscosity improver) that expands and contracts to create the change in apparent viscosity (Castrol advertises their oils as resisting shearing and thermal breakdown) better than others.
Helical molecules added to make an oil multigrade are very large, thus break down or shear easily. Some companies use a viscosity improver that costs less, but is more easily broken apart by mechanical action or temperature. Other companies spend a little more to use a better additive.
If the oil you use has a tendency for the VI to break down, the result is that you wind up with much less than a 30 oil after a couple of thousand miles. If you can't assure yourself that the brand you use doesn't shear and break down, you'd be better with the straight 30.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for all the info!

I know I will make a better decision with all the info I have now, I've learned a lot...Thanks again guys!!
 

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BluEHorizoN said:
I didnt mean to come off that way.... although thats probably what it exactly looked like. I just wanted to inform that old engines dont exactly need dino oil; if your car is in decent shape it can handle synthetic and if it leaks after that then people need to learn how to fix the leak instead of blaming it on synthetic (it was probably going to leak next oil change anyway).
I just went through a Mobil1 change last year with the Concorde at 120k miles. There was a seepage type "leak" in the front main before the Mobil1 (~ 1/2 pint per 3k miles) and what I call a real leak (1+ qt.) about a month after the change. I've nursed enough old cars in my life to know the seep would have slowly gotten worse but would have been OK for a year or more. But the Mobil1 did what it's supposed to - clean the engine. In the process, it cleaned all the crud from around the main, the same crud that was effectively sealing the leak. So, the main seal got fixed a year or two earlier than it would have had I not changed to Mobil1. The oil pan gasket sprouted several leaks too but was replaced in the course of fixing the main. I also had to tighten down the valve covers - luckily the gaskets were good and no further attention was needed in that area.

So, what's my point here? Mobil1 and it's synthetic brothers do not actually cause leaks (as has been said, those gaskets and seals were already on their way out) but they certainly speed up the failure process a lot in a high-mileage engine. Am I unhappy about changing to Mobil1? No, I'm not! I want the Concorde to last at least another 120k miles and this is one way to make that happen ...
 
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