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Is mobil drive clean same as mobile 1?
2nd IYO how does mobile oil compare to valvaline high mileage oil.
Again IYO what is the best oil for high mileage cars ( trepid 96 3.5) 110,xxx.
 

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Oil is a very personal subject. Many people will say, Go Mobil 1, full synthetic, with the Mobil 1 filter.
Others will say Max-Life with the Fram Extra Guard.

thing to do its.. do a search..... (this has come up many times)
read up, and form your own opinion.

I personally like the Mobil 1 with Mobil 1 filter, and run a variety of different weights, depending on the time of year, and type of driving (city/racing = heavier weight, hiway miles = lighter weight).
 

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Mobile Drive Clean is a normal mineral-based oil. It is not the same as Mobil 1. I only use synthetic and highly recommend it - especially to ward off sludging problems that some engines are rumored to have. Synthetic oil handles heat better than normal oil (I believe somewhere near 400 degrees) and has other benefits: pour point down near -50 degrees, reduced volatility (boil-off of lighter molecules) Valvoline High -mileage (and others like it) use a higher amount of seal-swell agents to help reduce/prevent oil leaks in olders engines. I recommend only full synthetics - in a para-synthetic (synthetic blend) there is no standard definition for what percentage is synthetic. Yes, synthetics cost more. Mobil 1 is available for around $18 a 5 quart container from WalMart. Amsoil runs 4-8 a quart depending on which type you run. Pennzoil & Valvoline are somewhere in between. Royal Purple & Redline can be 6-12 a quart. Oil filters? There's a very good site around where the guy cut open about 20 different brands of filters. I'll see if I can find the link and post it here. I drew the following conclusions: The Mobil 1 filter is very good - but runs around $10. The Purolator Pure 1 & Motorcraft filters are very good and seem to be almost the same filter. Consumer Reports did testing on filters many years ago - and Fram did very well. some people wont touch Frams.
 

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OK - maybe I was a little to high on the synthetic soapbox. I still strongly recommend synthetic for any 2.7; but your 1st gen 3.5 is a little more tolerable. I'm sure there are many good oils out there - I have seen good service (150,000+ miles in an escort; 250,000+ in a Celica) with Pennzoil. Last xmas a friend of mine roached the motor in his 1999 Durango. 48,000 miles. The dealer tore it down and said the cause was sludge had clogged the oil pump pickup screen. No way warranty would cover it. $6000 for a new engine. Apparently he stretched his oil changes a little bit. Funny thing - even after buying a new engine, he still wont use synthetic. He figures why spend the extra $ when normal oil is only $1 a quart. hmmm..... seems like false economy to me!!
 

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I recommend synthetic....

I wouldn't be surprised if the poorest quality synthetic - still performed better than nearly all conventional oils. They withstand high temps better, don't sludge, and carry contaminants better.
 

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Valvoline Maxlife... very good oil..! Use it on my 96... 131,000+ miles.. still running great (knock on wood) :blush:
 

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I know hondas had a problem w/ lsudge in the past, and the new element suggests 5w20, you think this might help or harm the 2.7's seeing as some of them (*if not properly cared for in the past) had some problems w/ sludge
 

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I've haven't seen any real difference in oils and there properties. Yes some oils are better than others, but the best oil for car is fresh oil. Do the regular oil changes when it say to be done, and there should be no problems. With the fleet of cars and trucks here, we do the oil changes religuesly, and the engines last. So I use the same oil, Chevron Commerical 15w40 and donaldson oil filters. We use this oil in everything, from the VW Golf's to the Chev Trucks, and all the 4 stroke diesels buses.
 

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I'm gonna go with Esso Superflo Synthetic 5w30 for me next and first change. I just don't want to take a chance with the 2.7L
 

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Honda recommends 5W20 & some Fords recommended 5W20 recently (although I believe Ford rescinded that) but 5W20 is no more resistant to sludging than other oils. Toyota also had a problem with sludging. To the tune of a few thousand ruined engines. mostly in the vans. (but not limited to)
Lab tests show that sythetic is less volatile and handles heat better. The pour point is also better when cold.
 

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Right, the cold starting is one of the main benefits of synthetics.
 

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How hard is it to change your oil filter? After everything I've heard I am a Mobile 1 believer. I am also going to have to keep this car for a very very long time so I want it to last. The only thing that I still cant figure out from all this is what weight to use.
 

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I run Mobil 1 synthetic for sludge prevention, higher and lower temperature tolerance and other reasons.

Since DC stopped installing engine oil coolers in our cars at the end of the 2001 model run, I think that synthetic oil is essential.

On the subject of oil filters, I had a nasty experience with a Mobil 1 filter where the drainback valve was defective and I had a VERY dry start one day. I don't know if there is any permanent damage or not. Time will tell.
 

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nightravin13 said:
who needs oil?
i use milk:D
Or you can use Prolong just by itself! It's is the ****!:wink:
 

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For those of you who use synthetic oil, how often do you change it? I am considering using Amsoil and they recommend every 12000 miles.
 

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Just switched to 15w-50 Mobile 1 yesterday. I put in the thicker stuff on account that duing the summer vegas tends to be REALLY hot. I can definately hear a diffrence in the higher rpms.
 
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