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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This morning, I went to replace the water pump on the 3.3L 1994 Chrysler Concorde. I was a little concerned when I saw blue RTV silicone on the bolt ends as they came out... but when I got the pump off, I was immediately angered. Whoever did the work before had used gobs of RTV blue silicone and the O-ring. Guess this is why the gasket eventually failed. So anyway, I take a plastic paint scraper to the engine block opening to remove the gasket residue... and am HORRIFIED to find the engine sealing surface underneath is &@$#% up!!!

What would you do? Better yet, how do I smooth that surface out, so I can use the correct O-ring only design? J-B Weld to fill the damaged areas, then coarse sandpaper, then high-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface? I'm so pissed, I really can't think straight. Please help me out, folks...

Pictures below:





 

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yeah man I wish i could see your pictures at work but no dice. If you can get a hold of air tools then I say use a wire wheel and clean it up as best you can. I am not sure if you can use JB weld as a filler but it might work. but clean it up and hope for the best.
 

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I would say not to do that. I saw a method on Horse Power that they used to port out intake and exhaust ports on an intake, they used a diamond shaped boring bit, and some hi-grit sandpaper, with some sort of blue fluid or something, I wish I could remember more about that, but yeah, you'll want some sort of filler to make sure you get it level if you use the bit.
 

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Put the blue goo back and let it dry at least 24 hours before refilling and it will be fine. Mine looks WORSE, used the blue rtv 3 years ago and it holds up to the system pressures just fine.
 

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nothing wrong with using a wire wheel it is the best way to remove that stuff. i have done it quite a few times. it is the most effective way of removing RTV.

Also remember if you use RTV again that RTV does not bond with dried RTV so you need to remove as much as you can.

I like the wire wheel because it does not seem to remove excess metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah man I wish i could see your pictures at work but no dice. If you can get a hold of air tools then I say use a wire wheel and clean it up as best you can. I am not sure if you can use JB weld as a filler but it might work. but clean it up and hope for the best.
nothing wrong with using a wire wheel it is the best way to remove that stuff. i have done it quite a few times. it is the most effective way of removing RTV.

Also remember if you use RTV again that RTV does not bond with dried RTV so you need to remove as much as you can.

I like the wire wheel because it does not seem to remove excess metal.
That last sentence is what I was worried about -- the damaged areas are like little eroded valleys and gouge marks -- they are so ugly and brittle-looking, I was afraid to use anything power on it (for fear that it would catch on the edges of the damaged areas and chip off more of the aluminum surface). But then, here's the catch 22: For anything to stick (even J-B Weld), I know I've gotta get it completely clean.

I'm gonna say it once (and nobody better repeat it!) -- I'm pretty damn scared. LOL... Depending on what happens, I might end up having to replace an entire front cover.... which would suck royally...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would say not to do that. I saw a method on Horse Power that they used to port out intake and exhaust ports on an intake, they used a diamond shaped boring bit, and some hi-grit sandpaper, with some sort of blue fluid or something, I wish I could remember more about that, but yeah, you'll want some sort of filler to make sure you get it level if you use the bit.
I'm so sorry, but I'm a bit confused. :eek5: Where do you suggest I use a boring bit? Just to verify, I was hoping I'd be able to either A) repair the surface by using some sort of filler and smoothing it, or B) find a way to seal it effectively as-is (probably without the o-ring, though I'm not sure)...
 

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Just get a tube of high temp RTV sealant, coat the gasket with it and bolt it back down. Let it sit for like 12 hours and then give it a whirl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Put the blue goo back and let it dry at least 24 hours before refilling and it will be fine. Mine looks WORSE, used the blue rtv 3 years ago and it holds up to the system pressures just fine.
Oh really? Did you still use the o-ring as well, or did you just chuck it and use the RTV sealant all by itself? Did you fill the o-ring valley in the water pump with the sealant? I honestly would've probably done this long ago if it was my car, but since it's my Mother's car, I don't want to do anything that would be contrary to her safety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just get a tube of high temp RTV sealant, coat the gasket with it and bolt it back down. Let it sit for like 12 hours and then give it a whirl.
Yea, see that's what I remember doing on other cars I've replaced water pumps on -- but they all actually had gaskets (except for a crappy Saturn). This Concorde has an o-ring instead of a gasket, so am I looking at using the o-ring and RTV?

You guys are so cool and helpful... Thanks so much!
 

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Oh really? Did you still use the o-ring as well, or did you just chuck it and use the RTV sealant all by itself? Did you fill the o-ring valley in the water pump with the sealant? I honestly would've probably done this long ago if it was my car, but since it's my Mother's car, I don't want to do anything that would be contrary to her safety.
I did use the o ring again. The biggy as said above is to emove all the old crud and let it sit to be fully cured before refilling with coolant, it will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks to everybody for the guidance!

I ended up finding Hylomar Universal Blue Racing Formula Sealant at the local Harbor Freight Tools (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97824). I was shocked, because I hadn't seen that stuff in years! As soon as I got home, I applied a thin film to the entire of each already-cleaned surface, gave it a couple minutes, then placed the o-ring, and installed the pump to the flange. Since it's Hylomar Universal Blue, there is no setting/curing time... and the bond is beyond awesome. I've run it for two days, and no leaks. Love it!

Just as a final precaution, I went by my favorite Chrysler dealer and asked the service guys there what they do when they get one of these (I then showed my pics). They looked at me, laughed, then walked me over to the bay where they were working on a customer's 3.3L water pump... and OMG! The fins of the pump were eaten off!!! And the sealing surface was completely eaten through -- you seriously could see the interior of the block!!! I was so shocked, I didn't even think to take pics to show you guys. But trust me, it was horrible!

Needless-to-say, they said they use a good sealant and the o-ring, and call it a day. Can't believe I was so worried over basically nothing. :redface:
 
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