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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted earlier about my roomate's brake problem. it looks like here rear passenger side brake line is all rusted to hell and leaking in back. to let her drive it temporarily as she has no $$ to fix it I intend to disconnect the brake line from the brake proportional valve by the master cylinder and screw a plug in it's place. my question is is the passenger side called the rear left or rear right? I would like to know to take off the right fitting. the proportional valve should make up for the loss by decreasing the pressure to the remaning wheel if it locks. this is just a temporary fix as she is diabled as am I and needs her car. anyone also know the bolt and thread size I would need?
 

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I would fix that asap. You can also cut the area where it's bad and get fitting and a short new piece of tubing. Can't cost much but safer than your method. That would keep her going till you can replace the whole tubing sections on BOTH sides.

But to answer your question, the rear passenger is the right rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Mr

anyone know the thread size? between the 2 of us being on disability we don't have 2 nickels to rub together untill the 3rd of the month and even then there is no $$ left for car repairs. a bandaid approch is all she can do now. I looked at the line and it is rusted badly as far as I can see in back so splicing is not an option. she has a reject sticker now because her front end componets are so bad too and can't afford to fix them either.
 

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for 7 bucks you can get a whole section of brake line from autozone. All you have to do is bend it to match the existing line that you removed. I have done this w/ an old 87 merc that I owned and the 7 dollars replaced about 5 foot of line. much safer than having no brakes on one wheel.

AJ
 

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when it comes to brakes you dont mess around,, i understand you delimma but life is just to precious to mess with,, park it take the buss,, barrow 10 bucks,, but dont drive with faulty brakes
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Mr

I guess nobody seen the disabled part in my message. there is NO $$ whatsoever and no one to borrow from. I cannot do this job myself. I can get under the hood and block that one line but getting under a car and removing a rusted line that is bundled with other lines and going through brackets and such and replacing and bending lines is beyond me and my tools. if someone could just tell me the thread size it would help greatly as it is the ONLY route I can go for now. she needs her car to go to the hospital for treatments and my car has no gas. she will drive it as is with minimal brakes as having no choice. I don't know why chrysler decided to make a master cylinder with no seperate front and rear resevouir like they used to. :ugh2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mr

to do that I would have to cut off the line with the connector on it and I perfer not to do that. of course the one I have to take off is on the bottom rear off the damn thing and is hard as hell to get to.


mass04 said:
no idea what thread size, just take it off, take it with you and match it at the store.
 
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