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Before anyone yells and tells me to search, I have been searching and haven't turned up what I needed. For the 2.7 second gen. from the insanely placed battery where should I run the power wire through the fire wall if I want to run it down the passenger side of the car?

Thank you and also direct me to any threads that I should have found,

Dave
 

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Run it down the drivers side and then thru the shifter cable boot (as in the How-To) and connect to the alt (it's mounted on the lower part of the driver side of the engine). This will reduce/eliminate dimming and is a lot shorter wire run. If you goto the batt you will need more power wire than the standard 20 feet that comes in kits and you will have dimmage due to the insanely small power lead going to the batt from the alt.
 

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There is a covered terminal that's the positive lead, should have at least one or more large cables coming out of it. The best thing to do is have a haynes or chilton manual in hand to have pics to look at.....

EDIT:

Goto THIS post(56K warning, super large pics), it has engine pics from DC and it shows in the first two pics (2.7liter) where the bold it that you will want to connect your power lead to- it's the black screw terminal that's sticking off the alt, in the second pic it's right next to the "2.7 LITER" lettering.
 

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DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT hook your power wire to the alternator output!


Go to the Battery with your power wire!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



The small wire from the altenator to the battery is NOT going to run a car and all its systmes, including an amp, with ANY sort of efficiency.


And YOU WILL cuase more problems with lights dimming and such by hooking to the alternator..........



I could go into a big write up on this as to why, but wont......Its just common sense for anyone who has half a chlue to the way electrical systems operate......
 

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The Viking said:
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT hook your power wire to the alternator output!
Go to the Battery with your power wire!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The small wire from the altenator to the battery is NOT going to run a car and all its systmes, including an amp, with ANY sort of efficiency.
And YOU WILL cuase more problems with lights dimming and such by hooking to the alternator..........
I could go into a big write up on this as to why, but wont......Its just common sense for anyone who has half a chlue to the way electrical systems operate......

And yet the advise I give is direct from the god-o-car audio....... but in your own message you state the problem with going from the alt to the battery. So you either:
A. Got to the alt and then upgrade the wire going to the battery
or
B. Got to the battery terminal and STILL have to upgrade the power line from the alt........ and if you go this route you waste more power wire than needed.

Please don't tell somebody it's common sense when it comes to these things because nothing is common to EVERYBODY. Also if you are going to use up a post with spaces you might as well just go into the full explaination..... WHY WASTE THE SPACE WITH NOTHING?! :twak:
 

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You can run your amp from the alternator and then run a new 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery.Many on here have done it with and without running a new wire to the battery from the alternator with no problem..
 

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Sport/SoundEdition said:
And yet the advise I give is direct from the god-o-car audio....... but in your own message you state the problem with going from the alt to the battery. So you either:
A. Got to the alt and then upgrade the wire going to the battery
or
B. Got to the battery terminal and STILL have to upgrade the power line from the alt........ and if you go this route you waste more power wire than needed.

Please don't tell somebody it's common sense when it comes to these things because nothing is common to EVERYBODY. Also if you are going to use up a post with spaces you might as well just go into the full explaination..... WHY WASTE THE SPACE WITH NOTHING?! :twak:




First and foremost, My 10 years as a MECP certified Car audio tech, Mutliple Trophy winning cars, Installer of 6 Custom factory demo cars, 10 years in Industrial maintenance, and electroncs, SAYS THAT IT IS COMMON SENSE!

Here is why it is BETTER to run a power wire from the battery as opposed to the alternator output terminal. Amplifiers a very power hungry peoce of electronics, At full output they can be very demanding on an electrical system. They will draw more power than what an alternator can supply.

Lets add this up for second just so you can maybe understand this.

headlights/lighting-20 amps
A/C and fan-25 amps
engine and electronics-15amps
windshield wipers-10amps

Ok, let me add that up for ya......70amps total draw


Now, not sure what the stock alternator puts out in a Intrepid, but I am gunna be forgiving and say around 100amps, hot, and turning at say about 5000 rpm

So with a 70 amp load on the alternator, that leaves 30 amps left over to charge the battery and run the audio system. Sounds good right? Well now, lets Install that amp now, say with some 4 ga wire (which can handle more than the 30 amps left over). Fine, its installed and shaking the crap outta your mirrors. Now, that amp is sitting there drawing say about 25 amps continuous with short peaks beyond that.


Now lets look at the battery and alternator. What is the battery for? Its for starting the car! But, what else? Its also for supplying power to the vehicle when the alternator is not putting out sufficient current. Next question, whats the alternator for? For charging the battery and running everything in the car. Simple enough. But lets look at the above figure of 70 amps load being drawn by the stock vehicle, and the load of 25 amps being drwn by the car audio system, thats a total of 95 amps. And IF the stock alternator puts out 100 amps, everything seems to be fine! BUT IT ISNT! Lets put this into real world conditions. Is that alternator ALWAYS putting out a maximum charge current? NO. Alot of time is spent at stoplights, stop signs, waiting to turn, idleing in parking lots, etc....... What does an alternator put out at idle you ask? The best one i ever measured was 45 amps, and that was a Lestek 600 dollar alternator, I bet none of us have any of those in our cars. So, plan on about 15-20 amps MAX! During this idle time in the parking lots and stop lights, your car is running off the battery. Ya, the alternator is helping, but not a whole lot. When the amplifier wants its current, it wants it now and not later. Where does all this currnent come from? THE BATTERY, NOT the alternator. Why would you want to hook an amp up, especially a multi-amp sytem up to a little stud on the back of the alternator that is feeding an already chessy little 10 ga wire to the battery? That little cheesy 10 ga. wire is what will be powering your amp(s) and will cause a serious voltage drop. Now, it was mentioned that some of you have run 4 gauge from the battery to the alternator, thats good, especially for allowing the alternator to put out all that it can to the battery. When doing an amp install, wouldnt anyone of us want to allow that amp to get all the current it needs to perform to its full potential? I sure would. Even with an upgraded wire to the alternator and hooking the amp up to it also, that just means a few more connections that the current has to flow through to get to your amp. Why would you want to do that?


Remeber this, Alternators are for charging and running the car, Batteries are for High current demands like starting the car, running amps, and supporting the cars operation during low output of the alternator.......


:brutal_43 :icon_roll
 

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What does an alternator put out at idle you ask? The best one i ever measured was 45 amps
...huh with your math equation you're already maxing things out with that 70 amp draw from the headlights, ac, fans, engine draw and wipers....
 

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Sport/SoundEdition said:
...huh with your math equation you're already maxing things out with that 70 amp draw from the headlights, ac, fans, engine draw and wipers....


My point EXACTLY! DUH!
 

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The Viking said:
Sport/SoundEdition said:
...huh with your math equation you're already maxing things out with that 70 amp draw from the headlights, ac, fans, engine draw and wipers....
My point EXACTLY! DUH!
:icon_roll I miss having dbaudiopro around
 

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Our amps put out 130, not 100. Unless you have the police package, which puts out 160. I also miss db. Dammit Mark, get married, and get your ass back here.
 

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I know everyone misses db, but listen to The Viking, db isn't the end all knowledge base of car audio. I've been competing for years, how many cars have I seen running power straight from the alt? 0. How many have I seen ever? The few on di.net, I'm not sure where this came from. db is also the person who said the battery banks I use are useless for daily driving.

Sure, I do have 1 run of garden hose size wire going from my alt to the batt, but not the alt to the amp. The other 4 runs of power wire all come from the battery to the amps.
 
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