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Discussion Starter #1
Eh not really, but I was driving around today and the check engine light came on so I went ahead and did the key dance and thats what popped up. So I popped the hood to do a quick inspection of my engine and found that the hose from the intake to the passenger side valve cover had ripped and almost fallen off of the intake. Could this be causing the code or do I need to dig deeper?
 

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Check your PCV valve and its hose(s) too. Replace as needed.

Hose may or may not be related to the 0300 code.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check your PCV valve and its hose(s) too. Replace as needed.

Hose may or may not be related to the 3000 code.
Checked the PCV. Hose was still good, there was some crud starting to form by the valve itself. I'd imagine that means its replacing time
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Been kind of busy recently but I got the hose replaced that runs to the intake and I still have the misfire but no check engine light. PCV valve replacement should be getting done tomorrow along with installing a new A/C belt. Might even check out the water pump and such just to see how that stuff is going just because I will have the whole front torn off anyway.
 

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Take it for a drive and try to hold the engine at the rpm is misfiring the most at. As soon as the pcm registers so many misfires it will trip the codes you want. P0300 being a random and a p030? with the ? being the affected cylinder number. Ive had many cars come running rough and a quick test drive doing the above will always get the codes i want. If you had a decent scan tool it would let you look at pids data such as individual cylinders and see the mosfire count.
 

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Take it for a drive and try to hold the engine at the rpm is misfiring the most at. As soon as the pcm registers so many misfires it will trip the codes you want. P0300 being a random and a p030? with the ? being the affected cylinder number. Ive had many cars come running rough and a quick test drive doing the above will always get the codes i want. If you had a decent scan tool it would let you look at pids data such as individual cylinders and see the mosfire count.
Well the thing is its the worst at the 500 RPM mark so even when I let it idle there for long enough it doesnt bring up any new ones.
 

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I would pull at least 2 plugs, 1 from each bank. Check gap and condition. If they got some mileage on them it's possible they're breaking down now. I've also seen people install standard plugs where platinum is required. They never run right and if they do, not for long.
 

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I would pull at least 2 plugs, 1 from each bank. Check gap and condition. If they got some mileage on them it's possible they're breaking down now. I've also seen people install standard plugs where platinum is required. They never run right and if they do, not for long.
Alright I will go ahead and check some of them. The plugs have just a little over 2,000 miles on them now but I will check 'em anyway. Still gotta pull the front off and put another belt off and check the water pump condition
 

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...I've also seen people install standard plugs where platinum is required. They never run right and if they do, not for long.
Single plat should do it - double plat doesn't buy you anything extra since these are fired single polarity.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well all I got done today was getting the check engine light to come back on! I was a little happy to see it coming back on but dissapointed to see that after the key dance it was still just P0300 in there. I guess I will take it in for a scan.
 

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Alright so tomorrow should be the day stuff gets done (schedule permitting). Gonna pull some plugs, Replace PCV, and via recommendation from another site(http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0300(scroll to lean misfire)) checking EGR, MAF, and the fuel filter. Hopefully after running through these, one of them is the problem (I'm rooting for one of the cheaper ones).
 

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I've been helping my neighbor with the same random misfire on his 04 300M. Googled "Chrysler random misfire" and it pointed to a bad "auto shutdown relay", crank position sensor, cam position sensor.

Replacing the plugs did nothing. We replaced the ASD relay two days ago and so far so good. If that fails, we'll move on to the crank position sensor, then cam position sensor.
 

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Alright so I changed the PCV and no change and I also yanked the plugs out. Half of them have some rust on it (not the tip or threads, I assume it spread from the walls of the inside of the plugs) and pretty much all of them had some oil on the threads and some burnt on the tips (the worst one were from the left side). So I looked it up in the Chilton and it says its a sign of worn down piston rings....is this true? Am I looking at tearing her down and slapping in new rings?
 

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Can you post a pic? Kinda hard to tell what's going on from your description. There shouldn't be rust on the plugs, but the porcelain can be stained/dirty a rusty color. Are you sure it's oil and not just carbon mixed with some unburnt fuel from misfiring? Is the ground electrode clean but worn? If it's worn it's hard to tell because the cylinder isn't firing properly. If you had oil on the plugs you would most likely see blue smoke from the tailpipe anyway. Chilton is like WebMD. Don't trust either.
 

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Can you post a pic? Kinda hard to tell what's going on from your description. There shouldn't be rust on the plugs, but the porcelain can be stained/dirty a rusty color. Are you sure it's oil and not just carbon mixed with some unburnt fuel from misfiring? Is the ground electrode clean but worn? If it's worn it's hard to tell because the cylinder isn't firing properly. If you had oil on the plugs you would most likely see blue smoke from the tailpipe anyway. Chilton is like WebMD. Don't trust either.
Well my phone doesnt like connecting with my computer so right now I have no pics. But the part that is rusty is the part that the socket fits on to twist the plug out. I am pretty sure it is oil because the threads were wet with it along with some close to the firing tip. I am gonna be running a compression text in the next few days. As far as I am concerned I have no smokes of any color....
 

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If there's an engine problem, it is much more likely to be bad valve stem seals than bad rings, especially if you have the 2.7 (you don't say which engine you have).

Agree with Sycoholic - no aftermarket manuals. If all it mentions is rings, then that's an example of why.

I'd run some tests to prove rings before doing all that work (possibly for nothing). What's the maintenance history (mainly oil and filter change) on the engine?
 

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Well, here is my story. It all started 4 months ago. engine light and misfire. I did all the obvious, coils, plugs, computer, cleaned injectors, no help. I fought the thing all winter. Problem would come and go. Random misfires (p0300, P030x, P035x), the codes listed at times 12 different codes. They would come and go. The problem would move around. I started getting desperate. The battery was weak, so I changed it thinking it would cause a weak spark. Checked fuel pressure. It was OK. Vacuum leaks. Fixed them all. Nothing helped. Then the other night I was reading the Haynes manual in a completely different section... It mentioned the one thing that I had missed. (read on...)

It was late, so I called it quits for the night. I went to the shower smelling like I has spilled the gas can on myself. I was so frusterated. I know I am not that smart, but I AM smarter than a danged car... I thought to myself. So I started thinking about it. What could cause a random problem that comes and goes? It has to be something COMMON to all the COILS. I started thinking about how the voltage gets to the coils to cause the spark. Battery positive to fuse to ASD relay to coil positive to PMC to ground... what??? ASD RELAY?!?!? Here is the ONE THING that is common to all coils, and if it is weak or the contact is worn can cause a weak spark by not supplying enough power to the coils... It is not mentioned as an integral part of the ignition circuit. It is not out in the open where it tcan be easily seen. Out of sight out of mind. So I changed it. The misfire immediately went away. Within 2 hours the light went out. It has more power than it had in ages. Mileage better, too (thanks to the fixed vaccuum leaks no doubt.). CHEAP FIX that costed me a small fortune!!! ASD relay in the engine compartment fuse box. Tell all your friends!!! ASD RELAY!!!!"

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f28/03-liberty-3-7l-random-misfire-fixed-748667/
 
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