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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sooo..... I need some help, recently I finally googled my way through the internet trying to fix my car. Ive got a crank but no start issue and I've ran out of options. I've got no money at all to help as well but I've came to a dead end. I replaced the timing chain and all the guides, and waterpump. YES the engine is 'on-time' and YES I connected the negative and postive back up. But I don't know what this red wire branching from the black wire thats off of the engine harness. I also screenshotted some codes that I found with my walmart obdi.. No messegas from SBEC or EATX and (65)P1282 Fuel pump relay control circuit... Can anyone help?

20210526_161206.jpg Screenshot_20210525-151819_HT200.jpg Screenshot_20210525-151709_HT200.jpg
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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No message from SBEC/EATX usually means a power problem to the controller. Double check all your plugs and make sure everything is plugged in completely, especially the plugs on the ECM/TCM and the two main engine harness plugs around the power steering pump.

Check all fuses as well of course.

IIRC the fuel pump relay circuit code can be caused by the other one.

As far as the red wire, it looks like someone replaced the fusible link with it that used to be there--its normally located in that area. If that is the case, it hooks to the battery jump post above the battery. Judging by the eye terminal on the end of it, that is likely what it is there for. It is hard to tell in the pic; but that wire is too small to be a replacement for the fusible link, if thats what it is. That would kill power to the alternator at least. I would follow it and see where it goes---definitely do that before you hook it up to power.

Hard to tell with that close of a pic if you had one further away I might be able to figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hard to tell with that close of a pic if you had one further away I might be able to figure it out.
That red wire is directly hooked into the black one that is factory that runs with the dark blue with black stripe. Which is a part of the engine harness. The red line is directly on the section of engine harness that wire comes out of.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Symptom:
P1282-FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT
When Monitored and Set Condition:
P1282-FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT
When Monitored: With the ignition on and battery voltage above 10.4 volts.
Set Condition: An open or shorted condition is detected in the fuel pump relay control
circuit.
POSSIBLE CAUSES
FUEL PUMP RELAY WIRING HARNESS OBSERVABLE
FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
FUEL PUMP RELAY
FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
FUEL PUMP RELAY WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE

Symptom:
*NO RESPONSE FROM TCM
POSSIBLE CAUSES
FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN/ST) CIRCUIT OPEN
FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START) CIRCUIT OPEN
GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT TO TCM OPEN
OTHER BUS PROBLEMS PRESENT
PCI BUS CIRCUIT OPEN
TCM (PCI BUS CIRCUIT)

Symptom:
*NO RESPONSE FROM PCM (PCI BUS)
POSSIBLE CAUSES
FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT LESS THAN 10.0 VOLTS
FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
PCM GROUND CIRCUIT(S) OPEN
PCM INTERNAL PCI BUS OPEN
PCM PCI BUS CIRCUIT OPEN

Symptom:
*NO RESPONSE FROM PCM (SCI ONLY)
POSSIBLE CAUSES
GROUND CIRCUIT(S) OPEN TO DATA LINK CONNECTOR
9NO RESPONSE9 DISPLAYED FROM DRB (SCI ONLY)
DRB
DRB ADAPTER CABLE
SCI RECEIVE CIRCUIT OPEN
SCI RECEIVE CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
SCI TRANSMIT CIRCUIT OPEN
SCI TRANSMIT CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
PCM (NO RESPONSE-START)
 

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Check your fuses in the Junction Block at the drivers side end of the dash and in the PDC under the hood.

You either have a a power or ground issue. Could be a short and a blown fuse.
 

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How much wiring did you disconnect? That red wire...did you disconnect it when you did your engine work. You don't remember where it was connected to?

If it's always been connected....where does each end go? Too many variables and vagueness.
 

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The Dark Blue/Black Stripe wire you refer to is probably the power to the A/C compressor Clutch.

If that Red wire that's spliced into the green at the other end is the Fusible link power wire...then the Red should go directly to the Alternator. Where does the green end of that wire go?
 

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That red wire is directly hooked into the black one that is factory that runs with the dark blue with black stripe. Which is a part of the engine harness. The red line is directly on the section of engine harness that wire comes out of.
Sounds like it was a replacement for the fusible link that is there. I would guess it needs to be connected to the battery jump post. Start there.
 

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I don't know if this helps. The OP added a photo in his third post. I re-framed and cropped it to help show the red line he drew in (I think representing the factory red wire shown - with some of the wrapping removed? - in his first photo - frankly I'm a little confused by the way this has been presented and explained):

41625


From FSM:

41626
 

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The two photos (2nd one re-framed and cropped, before wrapping removed?):

41628



41629
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm out here checking the Fuse box and now I'm seeing that the 40 Amp abs pump fuse only has one post to connect to.

The red wire, well there can only be so many possible spots to wire up to. So if I die, I die.
41630
 

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best i can tell the red one was a replaced end that goes to the fuable link... but i still see the green line. green one looks like the fusable link. but the red wire has a eye loop end like its not meant for battery.

as far as the code goes

you should hear the fuel pump kick in for 30 seconds when you flick the key to accessory from off. does your pump kick in? you can pull an injector and look for fuel flow by toggling to accessory.

it sounds like the engine cranks but no start from what im hearing.

ive had issues with PCM's that cause no-start if something possibly got shorted that may the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
best i can tell the red one was a replaced end that goes to the fuable link... but i still see the green line. green one looks like the fusable link. but the red wire has a eye loop end like its not meant for battery.

as far as the code goes
So I need another fusable link and to figure out where they attach to.. but I didn't have that and it ran just fine before the timing chain decided to gut my valve covers

What about that weird boxy shaped fuse bay? Its only got one prong, But I don't remember anything other than... But I just let sleeping dogs lie as long as I knew they were indeed alive and not dead like my intrepid. So I can't for sure say if that fuse had two prongs or not.. Logic tells me yes but I've been wrong a more than a million times

I also noticed that some trepidfs have a different layout onto the top of the upper intake manifold.I need to know the layout of the hoses as well...
 

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So I need another fusable link and to figure out where they attach to.. but I didn't have that and it ran just fine before the timing chain decided to gut my valve covers

What about that weird boxy shaped fuse bay? Its only got one prong, But I don't remember anything other than... But I just let sleeping dogs lie as long as I knew they were indeed alive and not dead like my intrepid. So I can't for sure say if that fuse had two prongs or not.. Logic tells me yes but I've been wrong a more than a million times

I also noticed that some trepidfs have a different layout onto the top of the upper intake manifold.I need to know the layout of the hoses as well...
that fuze in the box has 1 blade because there is no wiring for that circuit.most 2.7's didnt come with abs.

a "fusable link" is a 8 awg wire with a fuse. you can bypass it and basterdize jumper cables or something, i saw your short on funds but its just a 8awg line with builtin fuse.

do you have a voltmeter? you can test it with the continuity functionality.
if you hear a beep the curicuit is complete w/ continuity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I do, my knowldege of how to use said voltmeter is sketchy at best. Good thing continuity is smack-dab under sketchy as well. So, if most 2.7s don't have abs, then why put the fuse in there to begin with?
 

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I do, my knowldege of how to use said voltmeter is sketchy at best. Good thing continuity is smack-dab under sketchy as well. So, if most 2.7s don't have abs, then why put the fuse in there to begin with?
the fuse spot is empty. the one blade is part of the plastic shroud its a one piece distribution bar, like a household electric box with capacity for more breakers... its a universal part to keep inventory sku's low.
just like all leather seats have the seat heaters. just not the circuits & switches to turn them on.
anyways,

continuity on a voltmeter is your friend. it will tell you if the wire/fuse is broken
here is a link as im not good at teaching this part over the net through text.



did you hear your fuel pump kick on when you turn the key from off to any level of on?

does the motor sputter or just straight crank over with no sputtering/attempt to start?

one thing to i think may help you is starter fluid. if you have a friend get them to spray it into the intake while your cranking.
starter fluid is one of the cheapest things that can be bought for a car too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You can hear the pump kick on, starting fluid didnt do anything but hint at trying to start combustion. You can hear a hollow thonk-thonk-thonk- without any fire. It sounds lile there is a vaccuum line that may not be hooked up but i cant find it. I hooked up the mystery wires thats spliced into the wiring harness straight to the positive battery nothing changed. Power is getting to the fuse box under the hood. Ionno what else to do.
 

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Below is a photo of an aftermarket fusible link. Look familiar - including the ring terminal?

41667


With the red wire ring terminal like it was (not connected), measure voltage at the power wire stud on your alternator with ignition off. If you have battery voltage there, then the original green fusible link is intact. If that's the case, the added red wire (fusible link) is a (literally) red herring - IOW, fuggedaboudit - leave it disconnected. See the wiring diagram I posted earlier.

Using the troubleshooting instructions that Ronbo posted might be the place to start.

However, it appears that you lack confidence in your abilities to read wiring diagrams (in the FSM) and a multimeter. Unfortunately, those are the skills needed to do the troubleshooting.

So far this doesn't seem to be going well. Not sure where to go from here. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sooo... update... I redid the timing AGAIN. But on my venture of reinstalling a timing chain guide i lost a washer, so i fished in that little opening into the oil pan and procured these little bastards... im no genuis or a mechanic but id say it goes to something important that obviously needs replaced.... any ideas?
41698
 
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