A Pic would help!

 

:worthless

Can't really get a pic of the bottom lines but in the pictures are of the top 2 lines.
The bottom lines are a few inches (maybe 6") below the top 2 lines.

I thought the bottom had a set of 2 lines like the top ones but now it looks like it could be 3 lines together with some kind of connector-mount? It is leaking about a foot from the proportioning valve by that connector-mounting clamp (or what ever it is called).

In the picture there is a rubber separator on the top 2 lines. The bottom lines have a metal clamp-connector. My guess was it was mounted to the frame at one time to hold it secure but rusted off.

 

This might be a better pic of what area is leaking.

Not sure on how to go about repairing it. My guess is if one is leaking in that section the other 2 are probably ready to go too as it is always wet around there and probably soft from the one leaking.

Do I cut it and replace it all the way to the junction block/proportioning valve (not sure correct name) Probably a 1' 1-1/2' away with a couple bends.
All the brake lines have a good coat of surface rust from being in the rust belt for years. How do I know where a good section is to splice it at?

Any ideas what someone should charge to fix it?

Thanks

 

I don't recommend cutting and replacing the lines unless you have experience at this previously. Also, I think these are still available at the dealer. Many don't stock them but, the general warehouses still do. A better fix to replace the whole line and be done with it for good. Splicing and cutting just adds more links to fail.

 

I thought I read somewhere on these forums the dealers don't sell any pre bent complete lines from the front to the back.
I thought they just sell the lines going from the front to the back coiled in bulk and have to bend and put fittings on yourself.

Front's I thought they have pre bent.

How hard is it to replace the lines going to the back without the car being on a lift Jacked up only with a floor jack?

 

I replaced all the lines on my car with pre-bent dealer lines. It's not too hard. The worst is the rear lines obviously since you have to snake them over the crossmember. Other than that it's a piece of cake.

 

Thanks,
So it is doable to replace the front to rear lines just jacked up? It's OK for a little PITA.

Do you have the the part numbers for the rear lines? In the parts book all I can see is part # 01843251 and If I Google that all comes up is a 25' coiled brake line in bulk. Don't really see separate #'s for the left & right rear.

Also does anyone know the thread size of the caliper bleeder screws for the front and rear (if different) I am still on the original calipers so it should be whatever was used from the dealer.
I wanted to pickup some speed bleeders to make it a snap to bleed once the lines are replaced

 

Here are the p/n's, these are for a car with ABS. If you don't have ABS, the master cylinder to distribution block lines will be different. The higher you get the car off the ground the better off you'll be.

4779065AB Master Cylinder to ABS Module
4779748 TUBE, Brake, with Clips, Right Front
4779749 TUBE, Brake, with Clips, Left Front
5083038AA TUBE, Brake, Right Rear
5083039AA TUBE, Brake, Left Rear

 

Thanks for the help.
That why I couldn't find the right #'s I was looking in the 00 Parts book which doesn't list the individual rear lines but the 04 does
Now need to see where I can get them cheap. I found them online for around 60.00 each and it showed 13.xx for shipping which seems low for the 2 long lines to me .

Anyone else order them online or just your local dealer?

 

And a post I did when changing them with some pictures.

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showpost.php?p=1847353&postcount=43

 

A lot of local dealers will price match, or come down. Especially when you show them the online prices. The dealer I got my lines from went down 15% just for asking. Shipping on the rear lines would be expensive, they are huge!

 

That's what I thought 13.xx lol. I know if I ordered them they would say shipping now is 100.00 for shipping

I just emailed my local dealer to get prices and he responded they don't have the rear pre bent lines for my 00 so I emailed back asking for the prices for the 04 as they should fit. I gave him the 04 part #'s anyways but he must of ignored that and went off the Vin #.

 

It could be that he's trying to track then down or something.

 

Just got another response and this is what he said:
"They run $89.45 each. My catalog is showing that they will not work, but I guess anything is possible."

 

Well he's full of it, they will work. He just says they won't because it doesn't show them in the '00 book. Daytrepper on here put a set on his '98 SE that he added ABS too.

 

Does anyone know of any good online sites that sell Mopar direct parts?

I found factorymoparparts.com anyone ever use them?

Seems cheap @ $188.51 shipped for the front & rear brake lines & master cylinder lines.

I doubt I will get the rear lines shipped that cheap but though I might try if it is a legitimate site.

 

Does anyone know of any good online sites that sell Mopar direct parts?

I found factorymoparparts.com anyone ever use them?...

www.wholesalemopar.com also. They just had an additional 5% off code, but it expired yesterday. Their normal off of list is about 27.4% - not bad.

 

I used them in the fall to get some parts for my Intrepid, they were good.

 

Thanks for everyone's help.

Just like I thought the online order I placed was cancelled because no way for them to ship it

Ordered from local dealer. Should be here early next week.
Went from $190.00 online to $250.00 local. That's with an additional 10% discount mg:
5083039AA $80.51
5083038AA $80.51
4779749 $7.29
4779748 $20.70
4779256AB $39.78
SUB TTL $228.79
TAX $18.31
TOTAL CHARGE $247.10

Again the guy was saying that he can't guarantee the pre-bent rear lines will fit (according to his book) and won't be returnable. I said I have my family on these forums that knows best.

 

Did you show your local dealer the online prices? Or was that what the 10% came from?

 

yeah showed him the online prices and he said he couldn't come near to those prices. He then said best he can do is 10% off so I said OK.

The nice thing is they are going to drop it off at my house. I don't have to have it hanging out of the window-trunk 10' watching it bend in the wind.

 

10% is 10% - better than nothing.

 

There you go. Some dealers will come down when you're nice enough. My one piece of advice to you is to get the car up high in the air when doing the lines. The front ones are a cake walk, the rears can get a bit tricky and might require a bit of bending to get into place.

 

My one piece of advice to you is to get the car up high in the air when doing the lines. The front ones are a cake walk, the rears can get a bit tricky and might require a bit of bending to get into place.

I only get one piece of advice? But I have many, what do I do now? :nervous:

What is the minimum guesstimate it needs to be up in the air?

I have one standard Craftsman 3.5 ton hydraulic jack says max lift is 20" but looks like it is actually 18-19" max to me with tape measure. A pair of craftsman 3 ton jack stands looks like max height is 16"-17"

I haven't used ramps in a while because I don't have any at the current time but would I get a better height with ramps?
If so anyone know and cheap ones that would work 50.00 or less hopefully. I was looking at the RhinoGear 11909 RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramps [ame]http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Capacity/dp/B006EGAIII[/ame]

Anyone have any suggestions how to get the max height safely in a driveway?

Thanks again.

 

The Rhino Ramps are nice, but you need to get the car up in the air with the wheels off to get to the brake lines by the wheels. Your jacks should be able to get you up high enough, that's all I used. You'll need two pairs though to really make it work. I put pieces of wood between my jack and car when lifting to get a couple inches of extra lift, that's what you might have to do. Go up slowly, take your time. Also make sure you're on level ground that's solid. There's nothing worst than having a car fall over on you! lol

 

Ok, probably need to pickup a new set of jack stands for the front then.

I was hoping maybe I could just rough feed the line through with the tire on then take off the tires to do the connections. oopoo:

 

You probably could, but it would get a bit tricky. I'm not sure if I said this before, but having the front bumper off helps too to make the final connections.

 

I had the brake lines on my car go out (completely) while driving a few years back. Pretty scary, going down the road at 60MPH. Fixed with aftermarket (Napa) Lines, not Mopar special :banghead: seems to be working fine, but will be checked soon just for safety.

 

Yeah, mine has been disappearing for the last 6 months or so (not many miles though) just had a chance to have someone pump brakes and I could look for leaks, found it and it was drip, drip,drip. Now I don't even want to take it on short distances thinking it will go out.

The master cylinder should have a divider between the front & rear, No?

 

What year is your car? I know that my 1G was able to stop via a "hard link" to the front only. They worked fine, but we could tell that something wasn't right.

 

2000

 

Interesting. If someone wants to check and see if that works on a 2G that would be awesome, as I don't know anything 2G (yet)

 

The lines should be here in the morning.
I picked up another pair of stands that go up to 24" so now I have that pair and another pair that only goes up to 16"-17" Probably shouldn't have it on that much of an angle so need to see what height would work best for these 2 different pairs of stands.
My 3.5 ton hydraulic jack only goes up to 18-19" anyways without a block of wood.

Do you think it would be help height wise to pick up another 24" pair of stands? The minimum height is like 15.x" on those 24" stands which I don't even know if that will be able to fit under the intrepid. oopoo: If I still have to do a lot of tweaking (bending) probably not worth it?

I was looking at the car today and it looks like the front bumper must to come off as I couldn't even see the fittings on the junction block. I wanted to make sure I had the right size flare wrenches which I won't know until I can see them tomorrow

Besides carefully, any tips on how to bend the brake lines a bit if needed without kinking it?

Maybe I'll get a better idea tomorrow when I look at it but:
Which direction is best to get the rear brake lines pushed through?
Push the junction block end of the lines from the rear of the car over the crossmember all the way to the front?

How long should it take to get the rears pushed through? (Guesstimate hours or days)
The fronts don't seem to bad.

Thanks for all the help.

 

...Besides carefully, any tips on how to bend the brake lines a bit if needed without kinking it?...

Without question, a tool like this - inexpensive and I believe most auto parts stores have them:

 

It would help, but at that point you might just be too tall. I'd say stick with your original 16" or w/e stands for the front and put the bigger ones in the rear.

I just used a common wrench set, no need for a special set of flared ones. Spray the junction block with penetrating lubricant before you try getting the fittings out.They can be a PIA to get out. The way I did it on my car was cutting the lines off right above the fittings, then putting a socket on it to get it out. That way there was little chance of rounding off the hex part of the fitting.

To bend the lines, I just used my hands. I didn't anticipate having to bend them in the first place. Peva's suggestion is a good one though. You'll only have a couple small bends to straiten out and then rebend though.

I pushed the lines up from the front. As in, not putting the junction block ends of the lines through the crossmember.

Keep in mind some lines will have hangers attached to them. I'd put those one first before any other one. Also, you want to make sure you hook the brake lines up correctly to the distribution block. As in, make sure the right line goes in the right spot. My car had ABS so there was a diagram on the module, not sure on car's without ABS though.

Time estimates, half an hour to get the car up in the air and secured properly (you'll have to do it in stages), maybe an hour on the front, two on the rear, one to bleed things properly (generous), and another half to get the car down on the ground. It might take you less time and it might take you more. It all depends how fast you work and how you're setup.

 

I'd offer to help, but I'm a bit out of the way from IL

 

Actually Alabama now. I haven't updated the profile yet.

Mini vacation for you
It'll be 80 today perfect day to be outside under the car and sweat.

 

It's about 40 here today, it's warming up! We still have snow on the ground, it was snowing Sunday.