My intrepids muffler is long gone. We cut the factory muffler out, bent a pipe to make the S turn and just put a "standard" muffler farther down the tailpipe.

 

Thanks for that info, so I know it is possible to fit a standard type back there where the resonator sat originally on the 3.5L. I just need to get under the car for the hundredth time and do some measurements, then see if I can find the dimensions on the generic Walker mufflers or AP Exhaust online. If anyone remembers a specific brand/model they put back there themselves, please post.

The only ones they stock on the shelves that you can look at in the local auto parts stores are the "performance" ones (i.e. loud). You have to order others by vehicle or part number, and of course their computer just comes up "no stock" for any 1st Gen LH car.

I'm still good for a while with the small patches (I'm in a dry climate, and the car still has only about 60K miles), but unless another NOS one shows up again on Rockauto or ebay soon, I'll go the S-turn to generic muffler route. Or bite the bullet and go to the local exhaust shop for a quote. I have no idea, maybe around $250? if anyone here knows form recent exhaust work.

 

Just an update on this older thread for anyone who may be looking for the OEM-style 1st Gen muffler. (Like I wrote, I live in a dry climate and painted the original 3.3L exhaust system with high-temp paint when I inherited the low-mileage car, so the muffler survived all these years.)

First, VeebOrg's suggestion for using a universal muffler will work, but I wanted to avoid putting a universal muffler by the left rear wheel (where the rear resonator is located with the 3.5L engine) because it would be in the way of the rear frame rail, where I often put a jack stand. (But you could just put it there with clamps and removable hangers, and remove it as needed for work.) Here's a photo of the locations of the OEM rear resonator and muffler on the 3.5L, which is where a universal muffler could go:

The other option is to put a small universal muffler where the OEM muffler goes in front of the gas tank. It would need to be small because most standard mufflers have the inlet and outlet on the ends, not in the sides like the OEM muffler (see photo in first post). There may be some side-inlet/end-outlet universal mufflers that would work; but you would have to put a 90 degree adapter on the end outlet to attach to the tail pipe. Just have to check the dimensions and see what a muffler shop can do to fit it in front of the gas tank.

There is a heat shield mounted above the muffler to protect the undercarriage and plastic fuel tank from the moderate heat from the muffler. It can be de-rusted and painted, or probably replaced with a large bent piece of sheet metal if it isn't salvageable due to bad rust (you don't want to leave it off). I'd recommend painting it with with Rustoleum primer & paint or similar.

I found that the AP/Eastern (and maybe Walker brand) OEM-style 1st Gen mufflers do show up from time to time on Rockauto and ebay (they used to also be on Amazon), however they are usually expensive - see part numbers below. I was recently able to get the AP/Eastern #7362 for the 3.3L on Rockauto for $120 + ~$30 shipping. However, right afterward they increased the price to $145 + shipping (currently showing just one in stock), and they are even higher from the vendors on ebay. (By the way, Rockauto strangely shipped the muffler with no packaging or even cardboard wrapped around it, just bare, with a battered shipping sticker. Fortunately it survived UPS with no dents.) Autozone also had it recently, but very expensive at $242.

In the AP/Eastern catalog (pdf attached) #7362 is shown for the 3.3L, with a similar shaped #7363 for for the 3.5L. Rockauto doesn't currently have the 7363. The 7362 muffler may work for the 3.5L, but may be more restrictive since the 3.5L also has the downstream resonator by the left rear wheel; I don't know. Not sure if AP/Eastern is still actually making both of these mufflers. A muffler shop could check their suppliers.

The AP/Eastern (and probably Walker also) do require a bit of fitting though. With the one I have it looks like the hanger brackets may need to be moved forward a bit (need to dril and tap a new M8-1.25 hole in the frame rail). And the inlet may be 2" ID rather than I think 2" OD on the Chrysler OEM muffler. The two figure-eight shaped rubber hangers are still available from AP/Eastern and Walker, and Rockauto currently has them cheap.

The two brands of OEM-style muffler also come with a longer outlet pipe than the Chrysler OEM muffler, so you just need to either cut that down, or cut the OEM tailpipe if can be re-used, or just add a new short tailpipe section. I use unions/adapters and clamps on everything with exhaust sealant, so I can take everything apart easily - that's the way the OEM exhaust is set-up, not welded.

Part numbers for the mufflers are below. I've also attached a copy of the AP/Eastern exhaust catalog from their website. The Intrepid exhaust system diagrams for the 3.3L and 3.5L engines are on page 224. There are also separate similar diagrams on other pages for the other LH cars, just search on the car name. Walker's catalog is online on their website, but is no longer showing their #40059 muffler that was previously listed for the 3.3L application.
AP Diagrams:

3.3L Engine:

3.5L Engine:

The two-inlet/one-outlet type catalytic converters that will work may still be available from AP/Eastern, Walker and other makers, but adapters/reducers and a new striaght pipe back to the muffler may be required depending on the inlet/outlet sizes.
Here are some possible (not positive) direct-fit part numbers for the cat. Similar universal ones may also be available:

Walker 3.3L Engine: 15797 (may no longer be made)
Davico 3.3L Engine: 14586 (currently on Rockauto)
DAVICO 3.5L Engine: 14512 (currently on Rockauto)
AP/Eastern 3.3L Engine: 642460 or 642777(different outlet sizes? See AP catalog)
AP/Eastern 3.5L Engine: 642415
Photo:

In the factory parts catalog (available on this site in pdf in the subforum for Service Information) there are a few different Dodge/Chrysler muffler part numbers for the 1st Gen depending on the year and engine (3.3L or 3.5L), but you obviously aren't going to find those Mopar mufflers anywhere these days.

By the way, as you may know there are all sorts of muffler patch kits and high-temperature exhaust system paints from Rustoleum and others (both primer and paint) available at auto parts stores, hardware stores, and on Amazon. Also high-temperature epoxy putty from JB Weld and others. So if you've just got pinholes in the muffler or surface rust, those can be delt with by wire brushing to bare metal and repairing. With the aluminized steel mufflers and pipes/fittings, I paint them with high temperature primer and paint before installing. You can do the same with the clamps (a couple different styles) or just buy stainless steel clamps (~$8 per clamp vs. $3). I also use anti-sieze on the clamp bolt threads when tightening; then wipe off the exposed threads and cover them with the high-temp orange RTV. There are techniques for getting a good seal if you are using standard pipe adapters such as slotting them around the diameter and obviously using sealant (info and videos online).

1. AP / EASTERN 7362 (3.3L), 7363 (3.5L)
Aluminized steel

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Product Catalog - AP Emissions Tech, LLC.

Product Catalog OE Replacement Exhaust Catalytic Converters Performance Exhaust Diesel & Heavy Duty Exhaust

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NOTE: It is unclear if these mufflers are still being made, but they do show up sometimes on Rockauto and ebay in small quantities. Best recent Rockauto price was ~$120 + $30 shipping. They likely won't be around much longer.
Photo:

2. Walker 40059 (3.3L, possibly also 3.5L)
Stainless steel
NOTE: It appears this muffler is no longer listed on their website catalog, but rarely may show up on ebay, or muffler shops may still be able to get it from their suppliers.
Exhaust Parts Lookup | Walker Exhaust Systems
www.walkerexhaust.com
Photo:

 

You mentioned using that frame rail as a jack point.

I would Highly suggest just using the rear cradle in the center to jack the rear up. Alot stronger and does not flex the body.

 

You mentioned using that frame rail as a jack point.

I would Highly suggest just using the rear cradle in the center to jack the rear up. Alot stronger and does not flex the body.

I recall members here discussed jacking locations years ago in some other threads, and back then I settled on some places to use the floor jack and put the jack stands that seem to work safely.

To clarify, I don't use the rear frame rail to jack the car up with a floor jack. I use the rear round lift pad in front of the rear wheel. Because I just have a 3" pad on my old Craftsman floor jack, I usually only jack up (and put jack stands) on one side of the car.

Then I put two heavy-duty jack stands under the rear frame (unibody) rail, in back of where the rear cradle attaches, with another small back-up stand (just jammed in, and barely taking any weight) under the rail by the front trailing arm mount. I haven't had a problem with any denting or distortion of the rails doing this. (With a 3.5L rear resonator, the photo I posted in this thread shows the resonator would probably be in the way of the rail on one side [I have a 3.3L without a resonator]).

Years ago I found that the 3" floor jack pad under the center of the rear cradle plate started to dent that plate, so I immediately backed off. The FSM does not show that location as an acceptable jacking point, though I think if you had a big floor jack pad, or used a metal plate to straddle the full width of the rear cradle it would be fine if you needed to lift both rear wheels. The rear cradle obviously attaches by four bolts to the rear frame rails on both sides, which is just forward of where I put the jack stands. Also, when just supporting one side of the car, putting one jack stand under the cradle plate doesn't seem as stable to me as with two of them them flat under the frame rails - the cradle plate would be angled more to the jack stand head.

The 1st Gen FSM and the Haynes manual show repair shop floor lift points to be the two rear round pads, and for the front, just inside of the front pinch welds. However, on the front, that area they show for lifting does not seem as strong as using the front frame rail (where it "Ts" with the cross rail that extends from the pinch weld area). And the 2nd Gen FSM actually shows that "T" location as the proper shop floor lift point. At least on the 1st Gen, if you use a 3" floor jack pad just inside of the pinch weld on that cross rail, it will dent it before lifting. What I do is use the floor jack under the front frame rail to lift, and then put the jack stand at the T where the 2nd Gen FSM indicates the lift point.
Photo:

Of course the pinch welds they show in the owner's manual for tire changing with the trunk scissors jack can be used with a hockey puck-type grooved adapater pad on a floor jack, but the ends of the pinch weld tabs always seem to get bent a bit. Because of this, jacking at the pinch welds seems to only be useful for rare flat tire changing.

By the way, for what it is worth, the 1st Gen FSM also seems to possibly show jacking under the center of the front cradle (unclear in the diagram), which some guys here said they used to lift both front wheels. But I haven't used it since it seems unstable with a smaller floor jack. The 2nd Gen FSM does not show using the front cradle (a different design) as an acceptlable jacking point (and neither manual shows the rear cradles as a jacking point).

 

Again reviving this 1st Gen exhaust thread with some more info on cat availability for those keeping their cars alive. In the thread I previously attached a pdf of the 2016 AP Exhaust catalog for 1995 and newer cars, which is still on their site. Attached below are pdfs of the two older Walker Exhaust catalogs from 2017 and 2015 that cover all the LH car years with diagrams and part numbers (search the pdfs on Intrepid, Vision, etc).

Some of the direct-fit mufflers, catalytic converters, and small pre-cats/front tubes still sometimes show up NOS on ebay, Rockauto and Amazon. I was able to eventually get the direct-fit Walker cat on ebay for about $70 shipped, though like the mufflers some that show up are way overpriced. (Walker quality seems to be somewhat better than AP.) The current AP and Walker web pages have interactive catalogs now showing universal cats and pre-cats that can be used for the LH cars that a good exhaust shop can obviously order and weld in with adapters and new tubing in place of the discontinued direct-fit parts.

Here are the Walker, AP Exhaust and Davico sites. (Davico still shows the direct fit parts, though like Walker and AP, I believe the pre-cats have been discontinued):

Exhaust Parts Lookup | Walker Exhaust Systems

Use the convenient Walker online parts lookup tool to find the exact Walker exhaust parts that match your next repair need.

www.walkerexhaust.com

Product Catalog - AP Emissions Tech, LLC.

Product Catalog OE Replacement Exhaust Catalytic Converters Performance Exhaust Diesel & Heavy Duty Exhaust

apemissions.com

Catalog - Davico

davicomfg.com

1st Gen Davico cats:

Walker 1st Gen pre-cats:

I have also attached the Walker pdf showing the various types of exhaust clamps (some come in stainless) to use with tube-end slotting and high-temp exhaust sealant if you want to be able to take the exhaust apart. There is lots of info online on doing this properly with saddle or band clamps to prevent leaks. For example, you can at least do this on the 1st Gen 3.5L exhaust at the rear to remove the resonator to do rear end suspension work on that side or to use a jack stand under the rear frame rail.

By the way, like I said before I painted the exhaust and clamps with high-temp exhaust primer and paint from the local parts store to fight the rust battle, but it needs to be re-done periodically. For easier removal later, you can also put anti-seize on the clamp threads under the nuts, and then coat the exposed threads with the copper-colored high-temp RTV. Eastwood.com has several high-temp exhaust coatings that last longer than the exhaust paint from the local stores, but they are more expensive.

Ebay currently (April '25) has listed NOS #15797 1st Gen Walker catalytic converters for the 3.3L engine for ~$75+tax with free shipping. (But obviously check the pdf Walker catalog to confirm your application and part number.) The one I got before also came with an 2" ID rear clamp-on or weld-on sleeve in the bottom of the box, which may or may not be needed depending on the car. Even with the direct-fit parts, you may still have to do some minor fitting as I mentioned before with the muffler. The straight intermediate pipe and 3.3L tail pipe should be easy and inexpensive for a shop to make if you take in your old ones.

Also by the way, on YouTube there are several videos showing removing an older type clogged cat (like on our cars) and cleaning it out with certain products sold for that purpose, or even with just detergent and water and other home-made cleaning solutions - with mixed results. They also show additives to add to the fuel to clean the cat. (However, I would not use the method some mention of just adding lacquer thinner to your gas to clean the cat.) Lots of info on this online and Youtube. Might be worth a try if you can't find the direct-fit parts before paying a shop to fabricate new pipes with the universal cats.

 

One more thing to add on the direct fit 1st Gen pre-cats if they can still be found. As you can see from the photos, for the 3.3L engine, the direct fit pre-cat tubes have a hole for the downstream 02 sensors, which I believe are not present in the '93-'95 cars (just an upstream O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold). So those holes could just be plugged for those cars. However, for '96-'97 if you had to have a shop use the small universal pre-cats and fabricate tubes, I assume they'd have to weld a downstream O2 sensor hole in the tube.