GREAT WEBSITE !! I just ordered the non-SE gearing for my ES and a new chain. Just 80K I thought it could be worn.
I`ll do a Tranny flush while I`m at it. Has anyone done this yet? Any good tips? Thanks to all for some GREAT advice!
42LE Gear install tips?
Mopar4me
GREAT WEBSITE !! I just ordered the non-SE gearing for my ES and a new chain. Just 80K I thought it could be worn.
I`ll do a Tranny flush while I`m at it. Has anyone done this yet? Any good tips? Thanks to all for some GREAT advice!
61 - 80 of 91 Posts
Joined
·
1,069 Posts
Ah, I found it nut, bolt and aluminum.intrepitor said:
I bought my gears from a local dealer in Akron, Ohio. A friend works there. The speedo is off 5 MPH. I would NOT want any taller of a gear. 200 RPM more IS a noticable difference.
What`s a gear spreader for ? It was alittle "tight" when I put the new gears and chain on but not a real problem, just wiggle, tap (with your hand)wiggle some more till both gears locate on the splines and install "C" clip. Mine had a plastic spacer behind the drive gear. Good luck?
What`s a gear spreader for ? It was alittle "tight" when I put the new gears and chain on but not a real problem, just wiggle, tap (with your hand)wiggle some more till both gears locate on the splines and install "C" clip. Mine had a plastic spacer behind the drive gear. Good luck?
I just received some interesting information from Tony@prowler.ca he asked that I pass it on to the board.
Hi Raymond, Ron, Don ( Please forward this to "Avenger" ) I was reading your posts on the discussion forum at www.dodgeintrepid.net. Seems you are starting researching the same info I have worked on for over 2 years. I too thought it was just a matter of cutting a new set of sprockets ( they are not actually gears) for in the 42LE transmission.
Anyway, I'm not writing this to discourage you, but to simply clear up any mis-information I have read on your posts.
I agree, the best upgrade on the intrepid is to use the 31/34 tooth sprocket sets. They are the most economical and readily available. No need to change the chains (on later models) and the computer can be re-programmed. The biggest challenge on the Prowler is to adjust for the size of the tires. You don't have that problem with the Intrepid.
Here are the road blocks for a 30/35 tooth combination.
First - You have to be concerned about the size of the driven sprocket. A 35 tooth ( maybe even 36 tooth ) will fit in the housing but you no longer have any space for "chain skip" . Second - due to the new "gemini" - twin chain set up you either have to make "gemini" sprockets or get a single chain as in the early transmissions. I found that you can not buy an "early" chains. You are forced to by a new gemini kit - chain & 2 sprockets. Making new "gemini" sprockets is not an easy or affordable task.
Using the G-Force "gears" with 24% reduction would effect your engine RPM so much that the vehicle may not suit you for your everyday driving needs. This is a personal consideration you have to look at.
Other points - Prowler Pro's website shows their product as patent pending. Borg/Warner supplied THEIR product to both G-Force and Prowler Pro. When Borg Warner learned that they could be included in legal actions they decided to stop supplying their product to either vendor. Believe me, Borg Warner was not impressed by the action taken ( and also are not afraid of any actions ).
I supplied the same product as my competition and as mentioned by Raymond, at a much lower price.
I have now developed a replacement product for the Prowler. I do not know if Prowler Pro has a product to ship.
I am working on a next generation product that hopefully is more afforable to 42LE transmission owners.
I know that you have requested CAD drawings. Do what I did, take some measurements and create your own drawings. You then do not have to fear anyones allegations of steeling a design.
-- Tony
Note that he is working on a product more affordable to 42le transmissions.
Raymond
Hi Raymond, Ron, Don ( Please forward this to "Avenger" ) I was reading your posts on the discussion forum at www.dodgeintrepid.net. Seems you are starting researching the same info I have worked on for over 2 years. I too thought it was just a matter of cutting a new set of sprockets ( they are not actually gears) for in the 42LE transmission.
Anyway, I'm not writing this to discourage you, but to simply clear up any mis-information I have read on your posts.
I agree, the best upgrade on the intrepid is to use the 31/34 tooth sprocket sets. They are the most economical and readily available. No need to change the chains (on later models) and the computer can be re-programmed. The biggest challenge on the Prowler is to adjust for the size of the tires. You don't have that problem with the Intrepid.
Here are the road blocks for a 30/35 tooth combination.
First - You have to be concerned about the size of the driven sprocket. A 35 tooth ( maybe even 36 tooth ) will fit in the housing but you no longer have any space for "chain skip" . Second - due to the new "gemini" - twin chain set up you either have to make "gemini" sprockets or get a single chain as in the early transmissions. I found that you can not buy an "early" chains. You are forced to by a new gemini kit - chain & 2 sprockets. Making new "gemini" sprockets is not an easy or affordable task.
Using the G-Force "gears" with 24% reduction would effect your engine RPM so much that the vehicle may not suit you for your everyday driving needs. This is a personal consideration you have to look at.
Other points - Prowler Pro's website shows their product as patent pending. Borg/Warner supplied THEIR product to both G-Force and Prowler Pro. When Borg Warner learned that they could be included in legal actions they decided to stop supplying their product to either vendor. Believe me, Borg Warner was not impressed by the action taken ( and also are not afraid of any actions ).
I supplied the same product as my competition and as mentioned by Raymond, at a much lower price.
I have now developed a replacement product for the Prowler. I do not know if Prowler Pro has a product to ship.
I am working on a next generation product that hopefully is more afforable to 42LE transmission owners.
I know that you have requested CAD drawings. Do what I did, take some measurements and create your own drawings. You then do not have to fear anyones allegations of steeling a design.
-- Tony
Note that he is working on a product more affordable to 42le transmissions.
Raymond
You don't really need a spreader but it makes it easier because you don't have to assemble the chain and sprockets underneath the car with the two exhaust pipes between you and the shafts. if you spread the gears you can pick the whole assembly up with one hand holding one gear.
Joined
·
1,069 Posts
rman300m- Interesting info about the gear sets, I'm glad to have gone for the 3.89 gears instead of the Prowler Pro gears(if I could find them) it just makes sense for every day driving.
By the sounds of it, a home made gear spreader is a good idea as I will be flat on my back in the driveway.
By the sounds of it, a home made gear spreader is a good idea as I will be flat on my back in the driveway.
Joined
·
14,490 Posts
Damn, I want something more aggressive than the 2.7 gears but don't want to have to wait for the new ones as described above to come out.............I think I'm just gonna go for the 2.7 gears for now and when an affordable solution (or CAD drawings) become available, I'll buy or make them for myself. I can make many at work for a fairly low cost as I would just need to pay for the material, cutting of the teeth and hardening, the CNC lathe machining would be free........I think it could still be expensive as the cutting of the teeth gets up there
Joined
·
18,091 Posts
Interesting info. I can't wait to see what Tony comes up with. Thanks to both for the info.
Joined
·
339 Posts
This all interesting but I have to ask this.....
If you go with the 2.7 gears how is our car going to respond at highway speeds?
For example I normaly travel between 70-80 MPH on the freeway. But if I want to pass someone in a hurry I hit the gas the car roars to life and before I know it I am at 100 MPH.....
Now if I do this upgreat will it take it longer to get going even faster or do you guys only notice a difference off the line and not at high speed?
Of course maybe I shouldn't worry about it at all since most my time is spent driving around the city....
I just really want to understand this before I call and ask the dealer to do this....
If you go with the 2.7 gears how is our car going to respond at highway speeds?
For example I normaly travel between 70-80 MPH on the freeway. But if I want to pass someone in a hurry I hit the gas the car roars to life and before I know it I am at 100 MPH.....
Now if I do this upgreat will it take it longer to get going even faster or do you guys only notice a difference off the line and not at high speed?
Of course maybe I shouldn't worry about it at all since most my time is spent driving around the city....
I just really want to understand this before I call and ask the dealer to do this....
I think it should help at all speeds as the gearing helps the accelleration and you don't really need the high end of these cars anyway. I hit the limiter without getting out of third. I have tried high speed passing a few times and It dosn't feel any slower but not sure if it's any faster. I have not had it to 118 mph in third yet. Basicly the gearing produces better accelleration because it provides a better mechanical advantage as long as you have traction it accellerates faster as a general rule.
Rman
Rman
at low speed, the gear ratio really helps. on the highway, it really shouldn't be noticeable. right now 75 mph for me is around 2500 rpm.... with the 2.7 gears.. this should move a MAX of 250 rpm... more like 200... and the powerband at those RPMS isn't much different. you probably won't even notice when cruzin down the hiway.
Here are my instructions for changing the gears minus the illustrations.
Changing Gears in a 300M
1) Place car on Ramps, The higher the better, it can be done on jack stands but there is less room to operate.
2) Place a jack under the transmission with a 2 x 4 piece of wood the width of the transmission pan, to spread the weight over the entire pan.
3) Unbolt six 15mm bolts (Items #3 & #4) holding the transmission support crossmember (Item 2) to the frame, these are tight. Use WD40 to lubricate.
4) Remove the two 15mm nuts holding the exhaust to the exhaust bracket.
5) Remove the two 15mm nuts attaching the rubber isolator to the transmission bracket. Raise the transmission up with the jack till the rubber isolator bolts clear the transmission bracket. Move the crossmember forward.
6) Lower the transmission about 3 “ and rotate the crossmember so you can take out the four 13mm bolts holding the isolator to the the crossmember.
7) Rotate the crossmember back to it’s original posistion and slide out. If you can’t get the crossmember out you have the transmission either too high or too low, raise or lower it accordingly.
Now Lower the transmission to get better access. Remove aluminum transmission brackets, four 15mm bolts.
9) Remove exhaust mounting bracket (Item 4), two 15mm bolts.
10) Remove transmission cover bolts twelve 13mm. Make sure you get them all before you pry open case.
11) Pry open case with a prybar. Let drain, and then remove thecover.
12) Remove chain oiler, and chain snubber total of 3 torx screws.
13) Remove snap ring and wave washers from each gear. Note the darker link of the chain, each chain has one and they must be installed this same direction facing you.
14) Remove gears and chains, they slide out as a unit easily. The small gear shown in the picture has a plastic spacer make sure it stays on the shaft for when you put the new gears in. The right side larger gear has no spacer.
15) Place the chains on the new gears on a clean surface. Now you have to use a spreader to hold the gears and chain as a unit. The above picture shows the Chrysler special tool, I used two pieces of aluminum and a couple of bolts and nuts to spread the gears. You could also use a couple pieces of wood in place of the aluminum. Put enough tension on the gears so that you can pick the whole set up by one gear.
16) Make sure your plastic spacer is on the left shaft, now put the gears on the shafts. It will probably not slide right on to the spines, get the gears on the shafts and then knock out the spreader so the gears are on the shaft with the spreader removed. Slightly rotate the large gear back and forth till it starts to slide into the spines before it slides to far on rotate it slightly while jiggling the small gear, the small gear will then start to slide into it’s spines. Remember the angle of the gear must be right for it to slide on a great deal of force is not required, but instead the right angle of the gear in relation to the shaft. The Gears must go in as a unit and you cannot have one all the way on and try to get the second one in. You can also not mix up the gears, as they will not reassemble properly with the gears reversed, small gear goes on the left.
Now just replace the parts in the reverse order keeping in mind the following points.
Make sure the dark links of the chain are facing you.
Make sure the snap ring is in it’s groove on the shaft.
Take your time and don’t forget to put back the Oiler and Chain Snubber.
Spend a little extra time cleaning the gasket surfaces as it would be a pain to do this again just because you were in a rush.
Wipe the bottom of the transmission casing just before putting on the cover as the transmission fluid will continuously drip out from the bottom.
Use a cress-cross pattern when tightening up the covers bolts.
You will need to add about 1 1/2 litres of ATF +4. The longer the job takes the more ATF will leak out.
Check the Transmission fluid the next two times after you drive the car to ensure it’s at the correct level.
Required parts Output Sprocket 4659831
Transfer sprocket 4659834
Two Liters or qts. ATF+4
RTV gasket sealant one tube
:bigsmile: ENJOY!!!!!!
Raymond
Changing Gears in a 300M
1) Place car on Ramps, The higher the better, it can be done on jack stands but there is less room to operate.
2) Place a jack under the transmission with a 2 x 4 piece of wood the width of the transmission pan, to spread the weight over the entire pan.
3) Unbolt six 15mm bolts (Items #3 & #4) holding the transmission support crossmember (Item 2) to the frame, these are tight. Use WD40 to lubricate.
4) Remove the two 15mm nuts holding the exhaust to the exhaust bracket.
5) Remove the two 15mm nuts attaching the rubber isolator to the transmission bracket. Raise the transmission up with the jack till the rubber isolator bolts clear the transmission bracket. Move the crossmember forward.
6) Lower the transmission about 3 “ and rotate the crossmember so you can take out the four 13mm bolts holding the isolator to the the crossmember.
7) Rotate the crossmember back to it’s original posistion and slide out. If you can’t get the crossmember out you have the transmission either too high or too low, raise or lower it accordingly.
Now Lower the transmission to get better access. Remove aluminum transmission brackets, four 15mm bolts.
9) Remove exhaust mounting bracket (Item 4), two 15mm bolts.
10) Remove transmission cover bolts twelve 13mm. Make sure you get them all before you pry open case.
11) Pry open case with a prybar. Let drain, and then remove thecover.
12) Remove chain oiler, and chain snubber total of 3 torx screws.
13) Remove snap ring and wave washers from each gear. Note the darker link of the chain, each chain has one and they must be installed this same direction facing you.
14) Remove gears and chains, they slide out as a unit easily. The small gear shown in the picture has a plastic spacer make sure it stays on the shaft for when you put the new gears in. The right side larger gear has no spacer.
15) Place the chains on the new gears on a clean surface. Now you have to use a spreader to hold the gears and chain as a unit. The above picture shows the Chrysler special tool, I used two pieces of aluminum and a couple of bolts and nuts to spread the gears. You could also use a couple pieces of wood in place of the aluminum. Put enough tension on the gears so that you can pick the whole set up by one gear.
16) Make sure your plastic spacer is on the left shaft, now put the gears on the shafts. It will probably not slide right on to the spines, get the gears on the shafts and then knock out the spreader so the gears are on the shaft with the spreader removed. Slightly rotate the large gear back and forth till it starts to slide into the spines before it slides to far on rotate it slightly while jiggling the small gear, the small gear will then start to slide into it’s spines. Remember the angle of the gear must be right for it to slide on a great deal of force is not required, but instead the right angle of the gear in relation to the shaft. The Gears must go in as a unit and you cannot have one all the way on and try to get the second one in. You can also not mix up the gears, as they will not reassemble properly with the gears reversed, small gear goes on the left.
Now just replace the parts in the reverse order keeping in mind the following points.
Make sure the dark links of the chain are facing you.
Make sure the snap ring is in it’s groove on the shaft.
Take your time and don’t forget to put back the Oiler and Chain Snubber.
Spend a little extra time cleaning the gasket surfaces as it would be a pain to do this again just because you were in a rush.
Wipe the bottom of the transmission casing just before putting on the cover as the transmission fluid will continuously drip out from the bottom.
Use a cress-cross pattern when tightening up the covers bolts.
You will need to add about 1 1/2 litres of ATF +4. The longer the job takes the more ATF will leak out.
Check the Transmission fluid the next two times after you drive the car to ensure it’s at the correct level.
Required parts Output Sprocket 4659831
Transfer sprocket 4659834
Two Liters or qts. ATF+4
RTV gasket sealant one tube
:bigsmile: ENJOY!!!!!!
Raymond
Joined
·
1,069 Posts
Perfect, thanks for posting the instructions...I tried to get them from Rob's(Turbo) site, but it's going through some changes and I couldn't get them. I picked up the gears yesterday so I'm good to go when I have the time.
...I tried to get them from Rob's(Turbo) site, but it's going through some changes and I couldn't get them. I picked up the gears yesterday so I'm good to go when I have the time.
Joined
·
563 Posts
Yeah sorry buddy my geocities site is giving me a ton of problems recently and I'm having trouble getting even my old stuff back. I guess its time to go out and buy some webspace right!?! lolintrepitor said:Perfect, thanks for posting the instructions
Joined
·
14,490 Posts
HOLY ****, thanks for the info............now all I need is to be PM'ed the dimensions of the Prowler Pro gears by someone so I can go to work and make about 30 sets of them for everyone to use
psssssst, someone send me all of the pro gear dimensions! I don't even need a drawing just the dimensions.
psssssst, someone send me all of the pro gear dimensions! I don't even need a drawing just the dimensions.
Joined
·
563 Posts
Avenger said:HOLY ****, thanks for the info............now all I need is to be PM'ed the dimensions of the Prowler Pro gears by someone so I can go to work and make about 30 sets of them for everyone to use
psssssst, someone send me all of the pro gear dimensions! I don't even need a drawing just the dimensions.
How are you planning on getting the Hy-Vo chains? I think that would be the hardest part.
61 - 80 of 91 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
