[1993 EagleVision]

Car failed state inspection on Friday due to worn left inner tie rod bushing. Friday evening I replaced it.Car ran fine yesterday(Sat) without any problems. As I was turning right into driveway after church today the car stalled. Took it out again and it stalled at a stop light(I was not turning) and again as was making a right turn. (I almost hit another car and had to musle the steering wheel to complete turn) I am thinking something came disconnected or damaged when replaced inner tie rod bushing since its a tight space. Its a 97 3.5 Concorde. I took off the plastic air intake duct to get to bushing. Any ideas on what to look for?

Just to add, the first time it stalled as I turning into diriveway I accidently push cruise button on steering wheel. Not sure if this means anything.

I doubt pushing the cruse had any thing to do with it stalling.

How is the engine running in general? Smooth? Jerky/missing? Do you have a CEL on? Any chance you pulled a vacuum hose off? What is the history of maintenance on the car?

My guess on it stalling when you're turning is that the power steering pump may be loading the engine more at that point.

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Engine is smooth,no cel. It appears all vacuum hoses are connected. Battery was run down last night due to leaving my gps plugged in. Car barely started but battery was very weak this morning and temp was around freezing. Could a low battery have caused it to stall at light or turn?

Are the plug in trickle/rapid chargers worth the investment of $30-50. How long do you need to run car for the alternator to charge it back to fully charged? I have coupon for a harbor freight charger for $27.

Well, something changed after you put the part in. Look around where you were working.

I do believe those chargers should charge your battery. How old is your battery? As to running the car to charge the battery. Hard to say. Probably around an hour. (just a guess) I know it will not do it in 10 minutes. It's best on your alternator to charge it with a charger.

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Car stalled at a stop light on the way to work this morning! ??????? Just to add, it seems to stall when I brake hard.

Does it feel like the engine is shaking just before it stalls? The torque converter may not be unlocking so the engine could be directly connected to the wheels.

Have you tried two footing it? Keep a little, not much keep listening to the engine, pressure on the gas while pressing the brake? It could be an idle control issue.

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Check the vacuum lines again. Specifically the two that are on the passenger side just in front of the air intake tube you removed. Then check all the others, also check the rubber elbows on the vacuum lines at the throttle body's, I have seen those collapse from age and the plastic ones get brittle after 16 years.

The trickle chargers work well but get a quality unit. I have 2, both are Schumacher units. The alternator will charge the battery slowly at idle but a 20 mile drive should charge it pretty well.

Sounds like this guy knows what he's talking about. Have you checked these items?

Have you mentioned if it starts up right away or do you have to wait?

 

[1993 EagleVision]

I have checked vacuum lines and and it starts up right away.

Can you get it to die on command? (I'm thinking no) Braking hard while turning right? What are the condition of your motor mounts? Sometimes an engine can shift around because the mounts are bad and cause cracks in air ducting to open up. (just fishing here, someone is bound to get it right one of these times!)

 

[1993 EagleVision]

I cannot get it to die on command. Mounts are ok. Its stalled this morning when stopping at a light. This afternoon I slowed down and was turning right when it quit. What are symptoms of crank and cam sensors?

I believe it will run with a bad cam sensor but not with a bad crank sensor. They'd would probably set a code too.

How long have you owned this car? (sorry if you mentioned this before)

Thinking about this, it's probably ignition related because of the sudden or abrupt stalling.

If it was fuel, it probably would stumble and then stall.

You know, when you find this problem, it will probably be just a simple thing....(or so we can hope!):smiling:

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Not saying this is your issue. Just food for thought.

I helped a young guy with his car (don't remember the make/model). He asked me if I knew why is wasn't shifting. The engine also was running really fast at idle too. I started searching on the net for common shifting issues with his car. I couldn't find much.

Well I searched for a while on the net and we messaged back and forth. After a while, I don't know if I asked or he told me that he replaced the starter and this is when the shifting issues started. I went over to his place (this was the first time I had seen the car) and saw the starter he had pulled out. One of the terminal studs had been broken off leading me to wonder how ham fisted he had been R&R the starter. I asked him if he could take the starter out again. After he got it out, I found that a wiring harness had been damaged to the point that wires had been severed! To his credit, the starter was in a very ridiculous and hard to reach location. Also, he didn't have much experience working on cars.

After seeing the damaged wiring, I knew I had found his problem. He fixed the wires and the problem was solved

Perhaps another set of eyes would be beneficial here for you. We all get stuck in paradigms and it may take other eyes to get past them.

I'm not saying that you have damaged wiring.

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Been out of town since 2-13 and just returned today. I am hopeful I have solved the problem. Just above the right tie rod their are two bundles of wires one of which was in black flexible conduit and the other was not wrapped or had slid down exposing the wires. When I replaced the tie rod bushing and took loose the black plastic pipe that goes from the air filter to the trottle body the two bundles got pushed down and the one without the conduit was rubbing on the tie rod. I think it was shorting out causing the car to stall without warning. I wrapped it with conduit also and zip tied it up so it no longer rubs on the tie rod. I read something about a recall on this. I will know for sure if this fixed it in a few days.

Wouldn't that be cool if that was the problem! I do believe you found it! It involves turning and stopping suddenly! Also it unfortunately something you did.

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Problem came back today when I drove over speed bumps and now the cruise control light comes. After searching this forum again now knowing the cruise control light comes on I decided to replace the cam and crankshaft sensors. Just returned from driving over speed bumps and no stalls and/or curise control light. Cost me $56 for both sensors at Advance Auto with discount.

So, was the wiring the issue or the sensors? Probably a little of both? The cruise control light coming on is new right?

 

[1993 EagleVision]

It was your crank sensor most likely. Don't throw your old ones away, one of them may still be good. I would actually put the original cam sensor back in and test again.

Cost me $56 for both sensors at Advance Auto with discount.

Would it be worth his time to even test it?

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Paper spacer was gone on the end of old cam sensor. I felt price for both sensors was reasonable plus comes with lifetime warranty so I just did both. Cam sensor was easy to install. Crank sensor was more challenging since was on bottom and difficult to reach on 3.5. I used a swivel and extension to get to it and removed the wheel and rubber flap for easier access. Was messy too as I have an oil leak. I did notice that the bolt on crank sensor was only finger tight and I have never replace it since owning the car since 01 with 20Kmiles. It seem like every time I work on this car its cold as hell outside! My propane Mr. Heater came in handy. I don't see many first generations left on the road here in my area.

Anyone have an idea of what roll the paper spacer does?

Lets hope this is the end of this problem for the OP!

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Great!

Great to hear! Way to stick with it!

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Stalling is back and problem has gotten much worse. Car stalling now all the time while coming to a quick stop. Occurs 5-10 minutes after warming up. Starts back up immediately. Idles ok. I have replaced cam and crank sensors and iac and inspected the vaccuum hoses in including brake booster hose and brake booster check valve. Unable to drive car due to safety and is currently parked in garage. I did receive a P0401 cel. Im thinking egr is stuck open. I have the 3.5 and it looks to be a bear to get to. Anyway to test egr or egr solenoid on car before tearing into it? Other thoughts? Im am considering taking it to a local independent shop to get a diagnosis.

Just when you think you've got it licked, it fights back!

This link might give you an answer. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110321182553AAzdnRC They talk about the engine suddenly dying with possibly the ignition coil being at fault.

 

[1993 EagleVision]

The 3.5 EGR isn't too bad to do, once you remove the upper intake manifold. The upper intake comes off by removing the 4 little bolts and taking the cover off, then 4 vertical bolts, 2 bolts on the side, and then 4 bolts for the egr tubes... a few lines, a few plugs, and you can lift it up and remove one more line and one more plug - then remove the upper intake...

Then you can get to the EGR stuff pretty easy. I'd snag an EGR valve AND TRANSDUCER from a junk yard if you suspect that might be the issue, and if you can't get the EGR to move by hand once you have it apart.

Having the engine die 4-5 minutes after starting, and when slowing back down, DOES sound like EGR is sticking open. Worth a shot to repair it.

Not being familiar with this intake, is this a gasket that requires replacement?

The only problem I see with getting an EGR valve from a junk yard is, how do you know it's good? It could be the reason why the car is there.

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Computer scan indicated the crank and/or cam sensor was bad. I just replaced both a little over a week ago from Advance and made by BWD. I retuned them for a refund. Mechanic replaced them with Carquest brand which I think are made by Wells. Hopefully car is fixed!

Keep us informed!