[1993 EagleVision]

Problem came back today when I drove over speed bumps and now the cruise control light comes. After searching this forum again now knowing the cruise control light comes on I decided to replace the cam and crankshaft sensors. Just returned from driving over speed bumps and no stalls and/or curise control light. Cost me $56 for both sensors at Advance Auto with discount.

So, was the wiring the issue or the sensors? Probably a little of both? The cruise control light coming on is new right?

 

[cdmccul]

It was your crank sensor most likely. Don't throw your old ones away, one of them may still be good. I would actually put the original cam sensor back in and test again.

 

[1993 EagleVision]

It was your crank sensor most likely. Don't throw your old ones away, one of them may still be good. I would actually put the original cam sensor back in and test again.

Cost me $56 for both sensors at Advance Auto with discount.

Would it be worth his time to even test it?

 

[qaf88vze]

Paper spacer was gone on the end of old cam sensor. I felt price for both sensors was reasonable plus comes with lifetime warranty so I just did both. Cam sensor was easy to install. Crank sensor was more challenging since was on bottom and difficult to reach on 3.5. I used a swivel and extension to get to it and removed the wheel and rubber flap for easier access. Was messy too as I have an oil leak. I did notice that the bolt on crank sensor was only finger tight and I have never replace it since owning the car since 01 with 20Kmiles. It seem like every time I work on this car its cold as hell outside! My propane Mr. Heater came in handy. I don't see many first generations left on the road here in my area.

 

[cdmccul]

IMO, yes... But as long as it is running, that's all that maters I'm the end.

Congrats!

 

[ludvig]

glad you fixed the problem. I sure learned something from this example.

1994 Eagle Vision 3.3L (360,000 kms)
2001 Intrepid 2.7L

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Paper spacer was gone on the end of old cam sensor. I felt price for both sensors was reasonable plus comes with lifetime warranty so I just did both. Cam sensor was easy to install. Crank sensor was more challenging since was on bottom and difficult to reach on 3.5. I used a swivel and extension to get to it and removed the wheel and rubber flap for easier access. Was messy too as I have an oil leak. I did notice that the bolt on crank sensor was only finger tight and I have never replace it since owning the car since 01 with 20Kmiles. It seem like every time I work on this car its cold as hell outside! My propane Mr. Heater came in handy. I don't see many first generations left on the road here in my area.

Anyone have an idea of what roll the paper spacer does?

Lets hope this is the end of this problem for the OP!

 

[cdmccul]

The paper spacer is there to give you the proper depth. You take a new sensor with the paper spacer installed, put it into the hole, and hold down gently with your hand while you tighten the bolt. Then, when the engine is running, the paper spacer is ripped off and the sensor stays at the right depth.

I've re-used sensors with out the spacer - I just install it till it bottoms, and pull back out about what I feel the thickness of some construction paper is, and tighten the bolt.

 

[qaf88vze]

Its been two days and the car is driving without any stalling issues so I'm hopeful its fixed. I washed it yesterday and gave it a coat of wax and its looks great. It appears to run better than it did before. Thanks for the forum and the replies from others. I have saved lots of money, kept my car running, and learned a great deal about working on cars.

 

[cdmccul]

Great!

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Great!

Great to hear! Way to stick with it!

 

[qaf88vze]

Stalling is back and problem has gotten much worse. Car stalling now all the time while coming to a quick stop. Occurs 5-10 minutes after warming up. Starts back up immediately. Idles ok. I have replaced cam and crank sensors and iac and inspected the vaccuum hoses in including brake booster hose and brake booster check valve. Unable to drive car due to safety and is currently parked in garage. I did receive a P0401 cel. Im thinking egr is stuck open. I have the 3.5 and it looks to be a bear to get to. Anyway to test egr or egr solenoid on car before tearing into it? Other thoughts? Im am considering taking it to a local independent shop to get a diagnosis.

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Stalling is back and problem has gotten much worse. Car stalling now all the time while coming to a quick stop. Occurs 5-10 minutes after warming up. Starts back up immediately. Idles ok. I have replaced cam and crank sensors and iac and inspected the vaccuum hoses in including brake booster hose and brake booster check valve. Unable to drive car due to safety and is currently parked in garage. I did receive a P0401 cel. Im thinking egr is stuck open. I have the 3.5 and it looks to be a bear to get to. Anyway to test egr or egr solenoid on car before tearing into it? Other thoughts? Im am considering taking it to a local independent shop to get a diagnosis.

Just when you think you've got it licked, it fights back!

This link might give you an answer. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110321182553AAzdnRC They talk about the engine suddenly dying with possibly the ignition coil being at fault.

 

[cdmccul]

The 3.5 EGR isn't too bad to do, once you remove the upper intake manifold. The upper intake comes off by removing the 4 little bolts and taking the cover off, then 4 vertical bolts, 2 bolts on the side, and then 4 bolts for the egr tubes... a few lines, a few plugs, and you can lift it up and remove one more line and one more plug - then remove the upper intake...

Then you can get to the EGR stuff pretty easy. I'd snag an EGR valve AND TRANSDUCER from a junk yard if you suspect that might be the issue, and if you can't get the EGR to move by hand once you have it apart.

Having the engine die 4-5 minutes after starting, and when slowing back down, DOES sound like EGR is sticking open. Worth a shot to repair it.

 

[1993 EagleVision]

The 3.5 EGR isn't too bad to do, once you remove the upper intake manifold. The upper intake comes off by removing the 4 little bolts and taking the cover off, then 4 vertical bolts, 2 bolts on the side, and then 4 bolts for the egr tubes... a few lines, a few plugs, and you can lift it up and remove one more line and one more plug - then remove the upper intake...

Then you can get to the EGR stuff pretty easy. I'd snag an EGR valve AND TRANSDUCER from a junk yard if you suspect that might be the issue, and if you can't get the EGR to move by hand once you have it apart.

Having the engine die 4-5 minutes after starting, and when slowing back down, DOES sound like EGR is sticking open. Worth a shot to repair it.

Not being familiar with this intake, is this a gasket that requires replacement?

The only problem I see with getting an EGR valve from a junk yard is, how do you know it's good? It could be the reason why the car is there.

 

[cdmccul]

Find a car that is there for other obvious reasons... like, wreck, trunk/interior fire, engine exploded, trans marked as bad on the glass, etc... The EGR is likely not the reason it is in there, but sure, it is possibly bad. Not much you can do besides install and test.

As for the gasket - as long as the gasket doesn't tear coming off, you can re-use it IMO - in the shop, we disassemble carbs and clean them, and re-use the gaskets all the time if they don't tear. But, the gasket set is only like $5.00. You can get just the upper, or you can get the upper, lower, and injector o-rings... and I want to say that the upper alone is actually more expensive.

 

[qaf88vze]

Thanks for the replies. Took the car to a local independent shop to get scanned/diagnosed. I hope to know the results tomorrow and will update post.

 

[cdmccul]

Best of luck with it... Will be good to know what they think it is.

 

[qaf88vze]

Computer scan indicated the crank and/or cam sensor was bad. I just replaced both a little over a week ago from Advance and made by BWD. I retuned them for a refund. Mechanic replaced them with Carquest brand which I think are made by Wells. Hopefully car is fixed!

 

[1993 EagleVision]

Computer scan indicated the crank and/or cam sensor was bad. I just replaced both a little over a week ago from Advance and made by BWD. I retuned them for a refund. Mechanic replaced them with Carquest brand which I think are made by Wells. Hopefully car is fixed!

Keep us informed!