I have a 2000 Intrepid RT with 3.5. It has factory coolant reservoir, which seems to have 3 cavities. The largest is on the left side and seems to do nothing but take up space. A narrow cavity at right side center is where I add coolant. The right side cavity has fill marks. When I added coolant today, the coolant cavity add cavity filled, but the position of the coolant in the right side cavity where the fill marks are didn't change. The car is having no cooling problems at all. I just topped the coolant as part of an oil change. Can anyone explain how this reservoir works. Am I supposed to drive it before I check the coolant against the marks? Thanks, Ben
WHTG5822
This design is a real head scratcher as It's totally unconventional.
Chrysler used a third of the complete tank for coolant , the rest as an
overflow tank , But , if you fill the tank only to what they say is the max line ,
then the over flow side is almost never used.
Ok , lets say the car overheats and blows coolant into the over flow side, it will
NEVER be pulled back into the system because there is air between the cap and
the coolant level.
It's not a good design and I think " my humble opinion " that Chrysler should have
designed the sytem to run full and then like most overflow tanks , have that side
1/2 full of coolant during normal operating conditions.
Hey , but thats just me . Chrysler did a lot of things on these cars that I don't understand.
Chrysler used a third of the complete tank for coolant , the rest as an
overflow tank , But , if you fill the tank only to what they say is the max line ,
then the over flow side is almost never used.
Ok , lets say the car overheats and blows coolant into the over flow side, it will
NEVER be pulled back into the system because there is air between the cap and
the coolant level.
It's not a good design and I think " my humble opinion " that Chrysler should have
designed the sytem to run full and then like most overflow tanks , have that side
1/2 full of coolant during normal operating conditions.
Hey , but thats just me . Chrysler did a lot of things on these cars that I don't understand.
I know this is an old question ,but going by the FSM , the cold level of coolant should be
between the min and max lines on the tank.
That's the text book answer , otherwise I don't agree with the design and think
it could have been designed much better. When it came to production of these cars,
the bean counters won out big time. Better engineering was not a priority and thats
why we're having this discussion.
between the min and max lines on the tank.
That's the text book answer , otherwise I don't agree with the design and think
it could have been designed much better. When it came to production of these cars,
the bean counters won out big time. Better engineering was not a priority and thats
why we're having this discussion.
I'm pretty sure there are only two chambers in the reservoir.
It works like most other cars as far as maintaining the proper level in the system as long as total volume of fluid is equal to or more than that needed to keep level at the minimum level.
The key is that the cap acts like a check valve (in truth, it not just *acts* like, it *is* a check valve), with a second function of relieving an over-pressure condition.
Check valve function:
If you remove the cap and turn it over and look at it, there is a round, lightly spring-loaded metal disc in the center - pull on that disc and you'll see what I mean. That blocks flow from system to overflow chamber regardless of pressure in the engine, but allows flow back into the system from the overflow chamber with very little pressure differential (upon cool down).
Pressure relief function:
The pressure relief function is provided by the thick black rubber gasket on the underside of the cap sealing against the seat of the reservoir fill port. When the cap is properly screwed down, the black gasket is heavily spring loaded against that seat to provide the calibrated pressure rating. When pressure exceeds the cap rating, though the check valve part blocks flow to the overflow chamber, the black gasket lifts, allowing coolant to squeeze by it and flow to the overflow chamber, maintaining correct system pressure even in an overheated condition. So, if the system was overfull (say, *all* liquid, *no* air in the pressure side of the reservoir), when the engine heated up, pressure would exceed the cap relief pressure, and coolant would safely go into the overflow chamber.
So let's review:
The check valve restores proper system level during heat up/cool down cycles if the system is low in fluid as long as there is excess fluid in the overflow chamber. If the system is overfull, relief pressure will be reached, and just the right amount of water will go into the overflow chamber so that when the system cooled down again, just the right amount of air would be pulled in thru the check valve part, and - voilà - the system would be at the right level. [That part about pulling air back in is wrong. See EDIT. It will not pull air back in on cool down if there is coolant in the overflow.]
If there are no leaks in the system, once the system is stabilized at the proper level, it maintains proper level with some or no fluid in the overflow chamber - the air pocket at the top of the pressure chamber of the reservoir gets compressed and then re-expands as the system heats up and cools back down.
EDIT: On re-thinking this, I believe the system may not stabilize at the proper level if overfilled because it will not pull in air upon cool down. It will continue transferring coolant between the two chambers on each heat up/cool down cycle. I think it would be a mistake to intentionally overfill (i.e., always keep excess coolant in the overflow chamber) because then, on every warm up, coolant will be forced past the cap to the overflow, and will be pulled back in on cool down, and the level would stay above the Max line. I have to wonder if the constant running of the bottle and cap to max. pressure and exercising of the over-pressure gasket of the cap will cause premature wear out of the cap (deterioration of the gasket) and bottle (cracking).
I just came across this in the FSM:
NOTE: The coolant bottle has two chambers. [there's the answer to that question] Coolant will normally only be in the inboard (smaller) of the two. The outboard chamber is only to recover coolant in the event of an overheat or after a recent service fill. The outboard chamber should normally be empty. If there is coolant in the overflow side of the coolant bottle (after several warm/cold cycles of the engine) and coolant is within MIN and MAX marks, disconnect the end of the overflow hose at the fill neck and lower it into a clean container. Allow coolant to drain into the container until emptied. Reconnect overflow hose to fill neck.
One reason not to have fluid in the overflow chamber is that hot coolant exposed to air turns acidic - some types of coolant gel into a thick sludge when that happens. One of the reasons it was designed to normally keep fluid out of the overflow chamber may have been to prevent more rapid degradation of the coolant over time.
It works like most other cars as far as maintaining the proper level in the system as long as total volume of fluid is equal to or more than that needed to keep level at the minimum level.
The key is that the cap acts like a check valve (in truth, it not just *acts* like, it *is* a check valve), with a second function of relieving an over-pressure condition.
Check valve function:
If you remove the cap and turn it over and look at it, there is a round, lightly spring-loaded metal disc in the center - pull on that disc and you'll see what I mean. That blocks flow from system to overflow chamber regardless of pressure in the engine, but allows flow back into the system from the overflow chamber with very little pressure differential (upon cool down).
Pressure relief function:
The pressure relief function is provided by the thick black rubber gasket on the underside of the cap sealing against the seat of the reservoir fill port. When the cap is properly screwed down, the black gasket is heavily spring loaded against that seat to provide the calibrated pressure rating. When pressure exceeds the cap rating, though the check valve part blocks flow to the overflow chamber, the black gasket lifts, allowing coolant to squeeze by it and flow to the overflow chamber, maintaining correct system pressure even in an overheated condition. So, if the system was overfull (say, *all* liquid, *no* air in the pressure side of the reservoir), when the engine heated up, pressure would exceed the cap relief pressure, and coolant would safely go into the overflow chamber.
So let's review:
The check valve restores proper system level during heat up/cool down cycles if the system is low in fluid as long as there is excess fluid in the overflow chamber. If the system is overfull, relief pressure will be reached, and just the right amount of water will go into the overflow chamber so that when the system cooled down again, just the right amount of air would be pulled in thru the check valve part, and - voilà - the system would be at the right level. [That part about pulling air back in is wrong. See EDIT. It will not pull air back in on cool down if there is coolant in the overflow.]
If there are no leaks in the system, once the system is stabilized at the proper level, it maintains proper level with some or no fluid in the overflow chamber - the air pocket at the top of the pressure chamber of the reservoir gets compressed and then re-expands as the system heats up and cools back down.
EDIT: On re-thinking this, I believe the system may not stabilize at the proper level if overfilled because it will not pull in air upon cool down. It will continue transferring coolant between the two chambers on each heat up/cool down cycle. I think it would be a mistake to intentionally overfill (i.e., always keep excess coolant in the overflow chamber) because then, on every warm up, coolant will be forced past the cap to the overflow, and will be pulled back in on cool down, and the level would stay above the Max line. I have to wonder if the constant running of the bottle and cap to max. pressure and exercising of the over-pressure gasket of the cap will cause premature wear out of the cap (deterioration of the gasket) and bottle (cracking).
I just came across this in the FSM:
NOTE: The coolant bottle has two chambers. [there's the answer to that question] Coolant will normally only be in the inboard (smaller) of the two. The outboard chamber is only to recover coolant in the event of an overheat or after a recent service fill. The outboard chamber should normally be empty. If there is coolant in the overflow side of the coolant bottle (after several warm/cold cycles of the engine) and coolant is within MIN and MAX marks, disconnect the end of the overflow hose at the fill neck and lower it into a clean container. Allow coolant to drain into the container until emptied. Reconnect overflow hose to fill neck.
One reason not to have fluid in the overflow chamber is that hot coolant exposed to air turns acidic - some types of coolant gel into a thick sludge when that happens. One of the reasons it was designed to normally keep fluid out of the overflow chamber may have been to prevent more rapid degradation of the coolant over time.
First off, I have to say, I posted this question June 1, 2013 (no typo). It took over 16 months for someone to try to answer it. How did you find it in Oct 2014?
Second, I agree with the first writer. I think the FSM means that it has 2 active chambers and the large chamber to the left has no function except to receive waste coolant. A pressurized radiator cap and a regular coolant reservoir are much easier to deal with . I don't like this ridiculous pressurization system thru a reservoir that is largely a waste of space, as well as an inaccessible the thermostat at the bottom of the engine. Replacing a thermostat was a 20 minute job on my 97 Intrepid. Now it takes an hour or two.
I do think it fits well with an under dash HVAC system that costs $1000 plus to repair. Even the heater cores that Chrysler sells for this system are junk. So if we keep the cars too long, we could spend this money more than once. And don't even start on how long it takes to pull a radiator on this car. It's a half day job. This cooling system is a crazy world.
Second, I agree with the first writer. I think the FSM means that it has 2 active chambers and the large chamber to the left has no function except to receive waste coolant. A pressurized radiator cap and a regular coolant reservoir are much easier to deal with . I don't like this ridiculous pressurization system thru a reservoir that is largely a waste of space, as well as an inaccessible the thermostat at the bottom of the engine. Replacing a thermostat was a 20 minute job on my 97 Intrepid. Now it takes an hour or two.
I do think it fits well with an under dash HVAC system that costs $1000 plus to repair. Even the heater cores that Chrysler sells for this system are junk. So if we keep the cars too long, we could spend this money more than once. And don't even start on how long it takes to pull a radiator on this car. It's a half day job. This cooling system is a crazy world.
Well everything and anything can seem like a poor design if you have little to no understanding of it or why it has come to be that way in the 1st place, no company of this era will do something unnecessary as it is a waste of time and money, if you think these cars are hard better run from the European cars as they can be worse, this car is more advanced than most of it's counterparts from it's American rivals hence why it is more powerful, aerodynamic and more fun to drive, hating how it's made just means your skill level is not advanced enough to be servicing such a car, so either challenge yourself and see if you want the big boy car got to wear the big boy pants or join the little kids with their simpler cars which may or may not be as nice, powerful or fun, I own a few other brands besides Dodge including a few Japanese imports, I like them for various reasons or would not have them, but all have flaws, my rust free Honda has a rotted subframe from a flaw they produced, and time for a timing belt and all the seals and gaskets, I have my whole dash and heater box out of my Intrepid because a lever attached to the actuator broke and no replacement can't even disconnect what it attaches to in order to replace it, tried and it broke badly, now am piecing together from a manual heater box refitting it with new heater core, actuators the whole 9 yards to use it with my atc, and the original heater core is built better than any after market replacements I have seen as it is built with aluminum and copper, copper conducts the heat better, the new one is no cheap brand but it is all aluminum and uses more fins smaller together to conduct the Same heat or close to it. If my original wasn't so old and my car was better taken care of by the last owner who left water and stop leak in the cooling system costing me a rad, freezeplugs etc. I'd be reusing it.
Well everything and anything can seem like a poor design if you have little to no understanding of it or why it has come to be that way in the 1st place, no company of this era will do something unnecessary as it is a waste of time and money, if you think these cars are hard better run from the European cars as they can be worse, this car is more advanced than most of it's counterparts from it's American rivals hence why it is more powerful, aerodynamic and more fun to drive, hating how it's made just means your skill level is not advanced enough to be servicing such a car, so either challenge yourself and see if you want the big boy car got to wear the big boy pants or join the little kids with their simpler cars which may or may not be as nice, powerful or fun, I own a few other brands besides Dodge including a few Japanese imports, I like them for various reasons or would not have them, but all have flaws, my rust free Honda has a rotted subframe from a flaw they produced, and time for a timing belt and all the seals and gaskets, I have my whole dash and heater box out of my Intrepid because a lever attached to the actuator broke and no replacement can't even disconnect what it attaches to in order to replace it, tried and it broke badly, now am piecing together from a manual heater box refitting it with new heater core, actuators the whole 9 yards to use it with my atc, and the original heater core is built better than any after market replacements I have seen as it is built with aluminum and copper, copper conducts the heat better, the new one is no cheap brand but it is all aluminum and uses more fins smaller together to conduct the Same heat or close to it. If my original wasn't so old and my car was better taken care of by the last owner who left water and stop leak in the cooling system costing me a rad, freezeplugs etc. I'd be reusing it.
First off, I have to say, I posted this question June 1, 2013 (no typo). It took over 16 months for someone to try to answer it. How did you find it in Oct 2014?
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Google is your friend
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Google is your friend
Yep just go on Google and type in something like 02 Dodge Intrepid cooling system or reservoir simple as that and if the thread topic matches any of those key words it will pop up even on a dead forum or topic could be from as far back as early 2000's try it on any car and see what you'll find. If the thread topic then gets any responses again it gets moved to the top of the list like new.
On the radiator, I did the timing belt/water pump job at 100K miles as prescribed on my Intrepid and on my wife's Concorde. I wanted more room for the tripod harmonic balancer puller with the 2000 Concorde. I had to pull the hood latch cover and electric fans. Then there were Torx screws at the condenser that attached it to the radiator. Plastic shields blocked access and I had to move a lot of parts, just to get access to these screws and detach the radiator from the condenser. Once I pulled the radiator, there was a lot more room to operate and pull the harmonic balancer/crank pulley, but the job of pulling the radiator took a long time, because I couldn't get access to those Torx screws. It's hard to tell how long from my notes, but I remember wasting the morning pulling that radiator. I ended up wishing I had bought a shorter harmonic balancer pulling tool, instead of wasting all that time pulling the radiator.
My comment was that the cooling system is unnecessarily complicated. I think that is a problem in other areas as well. On that same Concorde, I recently changed a headlight bulb. I had to jack the car, pull the front wheel on that side, pull a panel in the wheel well, and use several extensions to reach the stud for the bumper fascia. After removing that stud nut, along with a few other fasters, I was able to move the bumper fascia out of the way, remove the headlight assembly, and replace the bulb. My comment was not that I hate my cars; my comment was that some things on these cars are unnecessarily complicated.
I have a 1990 Dodge Power Ram that I built from a shell. I replaced the engine, trans, transfer case, drive shafts, and both axles. Then I did all the work to make the truck run and run well. The radiator on that truck is simple to remove, movement of the coolant can be seen by simply pulling the radiator cap, and the overflow is only that: an overflow reservoir. My point was: Chrysler already had a simple design. Why make it so complicated?
I'm sure that many of you are better mechanics than me, although I have built rear wheel drive engines and trans on my own engine stand and on my own work bench. I also do all the work on my Intrepid and my wife's Concorde except major AC and wheel alignment. I admit that there will always be better and faster mechanics than me. As far as comments like "big boy pants," it is also true that there will always be people who are bigger assholes than me. Congratulations on fitting into that category. That's the problem with the internet. It gives people the ability to be judgmental and insulting from the anonymity of their computer screens.
My comment was that the cooling system is unnecessarily complicated. I think that is a problem in other areas as well. On that same Concorde, I recently changed a headlight bulb. I had to jack the car, pull the front wheel on that side, pull a panel in the wheel well, and use several extensions to reach the stud for the bumper fascia. After removing that stud nut, along with a few other fasters, I was able to move the bumper fascia out of the way, remove the headlight assembly, and replace the bulb. My comment was not that I hate my cars; my comment was that some things on these cars are unnecessarily complicated.
I have a 1990 Dodge Power Ram that I built from a shell. I replaced the engine, trans, transfer case, drive shafts, and both axles. Then I did all the work to make the truck run and run well. The radiator on that truck is simple to remove, movement of the coolant can be seen by simply pulling the radiator cap, and the overflow is only that: an overflow reservoir. My point was: Chrysler already had a simple design. Why make it so complicated?
I'm sure that many of you are better mechanics than me, although I have built rear wheel drive engines and trans on my own engine stand and on my own work bench. I also do all the work on my Intrepid and my wife's Concorde except major AC and wheel alignment. I admit that there will always be better and faster mechanics than me. As far as comments like "big boy pants," it is also true that there will always be people who are bigger assholes than me. Congratulations on fitting into that category. That's the problem with the internet. It gives people the ability to be judgmental and insulting from the anonymity of their computer screens.
In the end they started making cars that make you 'think' you need ot take it to someone more qualified. In my experience I've just learned to dive into the car, and if something goes bad, well...at least ya tried :S
OK ,,, Lets get back to the reservoir theory,
This is how I'm personally going to try and run the system.
I'm going to run the engine side full with a 13lb radiator cap and
run the overflow side filled to just below the mold seam.
I did drill the overflow side and use a Dorman 65293 rubber plug for
ease of filling , but you can do it very easily with a small funnel thru
the overflow hose.
Note : Something to think about ,,,,,
If your car is filled only to the max line on the engine side and runs
hot a couple times or maybe even once , it will blow a small amount of
coolant into the overflow , which will never come back.
You pick the hood and dam , why is this thing leaking coolant ??
This is how I'm personally going to try and run the system.
I'm going to run the engine side full with a 13lb radiator cap and
run the overflow side filled to just below the mold seam.
I did drill the overflow side and use a Dorman 65293 rubber plug for
ease of filling , but you can do it very easily with a small funnel thru
the overflow hose.
Note : Something to think about ,,,,,
If your car is filled only to the max line on the engine side and runs
hot a couple times or maybe even once , it will blow a small amount of
coolant into the overflow , which will never come back.
You pick the hood and dam , why is this thing leaking coolant ??
I apologize if I offended you, after rereading my comment it did sound a bit anal, but the point I was trying to come across is if you look at what Mopar was doing during the time the 1st gen Intrepid was born.
They were evolving into this new brand of car manufacturer leaving the once simple but effective image they once had behind, they no longer wanted to be known for just mediocre easy simple K cars, minivans even though the Caravan attributed to much of the financial sales increase they ever seen for a long while and get it done regular pickup trucks.
They wanted to leave the old behind and redesign everything for that new image, notice how even the pentastar logo that used to be placed on all cars disappeared, enter the new dodge ram head logo on their lineup.
Well that probably got copied from when Chrysler owned Lamborghini it is also how they first stumbled upon the idea of a cab forward design, so we all have Lambo to thank for that as well as the performance that the Viper and maybe the 3.5 became aspired to have.
Ok well to give more examples the Mitsu designed Stealth was introduced, the Viper, the new redesigned Ram for 94 would forever change the way Pickup trucks were designed to look and it sold like hotcakes, more cars like the Neon, and cloud cars stratus etc, faux cars like the Avenger.
The point is they wanted to leave simple behind, they could have kept on with it but they wanted to compete with more than Ford and GM, often times the 3.5 was compared to the performance of the likes of the Acura RL and the Lexus GS which were compared to Mercedes, BMW and Audi, It takes a GM 3800 supercharged v6 to beat a 3.5 N/A of the same time period think about it how is that, and the Ford Taurus SHO has a 24 valve dohc v6 around this time frame and it isn't nearly as reliable as the 3.5 and it's compartment and nothing simple to work on or with to most with ample mechanical skill.
Though it may not be necessary to design a car that is so cramped and complicated, to make this car simple or easy to service, well Chrysler had been there and done that before and it didn't get them much recognition or sales or even good reviews from car critics, and if you really look at it not everything Chrysler made in the 80's and early 90's sold well.
I liked the Dynasty, Newyorker and Imperial fwd cars I had but the Dynasty only sold well in fleets like rent a cars and companies that were looking for a deal on company cars, Newyorker's and Imperials never quite beat out the Buick Century, and Park Ave. and its Oldsmobile counterpart the 88 I think.
The LHS, Concorde and Intrepid on the other hand was a different story. The Dynasty and its siblings were relatively easy to work on and the 3.3 for the most part was very reliable and durable I got 269K miles on a 92 Dynasty when I sold it and 215,000 miles on a Newyorker still going strong on just tune ups, oil changes and regular maitnance.
I bought a 93 Trep and 94 Concorde with 3.3's but it wasn't as lively as the 3.5 and could barely get out of its own way, I hated trying to pass people and not being able to if they wanted to be an a hole about it and floor their car to close up the gap, I got the last of the 1st gens both 97's both 3.5's and it was a day and night difference wasn't just a little power increase was a big one, almost comparable with my Ford of equal weight with a sohc v8.
The 3.3 version of the LH cars were just as reliable as my AC/AY body cars and even easier to work on but the power wasn't like that of my AC/AY body car and that bothered me.
I worked with, went to school with and dealed with internet trolls that constantly bashed the Intrepid for this and that because they bought it used, probably needed maitnance and didn't want to do it, and expected their 1500.00 car to never need repair or be easy or cheap to repair but they don't know what it really is they figure it is a domestic car so it has got to be cheap and easy wrong and wrong.
Open the hood and you'll see what your dealing with is not ordinary dissect a 3.5 and you'll be amazed at the quality and durability the bottom end has and the amount of thought put into the motor, how many know about the Neon having the most expensive rods called a cracked rod design.
This is an expensive and unique process that allows the rod to seal against a main bearing better than anything, top hot rodders can tell you it is expensive and one of the best rod designs you can get. Still think Chrysler is the same as it was before? Chrysler evolved but the people buying them or American auto owners are the ones that didn't or couldn't and bashed the brand over and over again for their lack of understanding.
They were evolving into this new brand of car manufacturer leaving the once simple but effective image they once had behind, they no longer wanted to be known for just mediocre easy simple K cars, minivans even though the Caravan attributed to much of the financial sales increase they ever seen for a long while and get it done regular pickup trucks.
They wanted to leave the old behind and redesign everything for that new image, notice how even the pentastar logo that used to be placed on all cars disappeared, enter the new dodge ram head logo on their lineup.
Well that probably got copied from when Chrysler owned Lamborghini it is also how they first stumbled upon the idea of a cab forward design, so we all have Lambo to thank for that as well as the performance that the Viper and maybe the 3.5 became aspired to have.
Ok well to give more examples the Mitsu designed Stealth was introduced, the Viper, the new redesigned Ram for 94 would forever change the way Pickup trucks were designed to look and it sold like hotcakes, more cars like the Neon, and cloud cars stratus etc, faux cars like the Avenger.
The point is they wanted to leave simple behind, they could have kept on with it but they wanted to compete with more than Ford and GM, often times the 3.5 was compared to the performance of the likes of the Acura RL and the Lexus GS which were compared to Mercedes, BMW and Audi, It takes a GM 3800 supercharged v6 to beat a 3.5 N/A of the same time period think about it how is that, and the Ford Taurus SHO has a 24 valve dohc v6 around this time frame and it isn't nearly as reliable as the 3.5 and it's compartment and nothing simple to work on or with to most with ample mechanical skill.
Though it may not be necessary to design a car that is so cramped and complicated, to make this car simple or easy to service, well Chrysler had been there and done that before and it didn't get them much recognition or sales or even good reviews from car critics, and if you really look at it not everything Chrysler made in the 80's and early 90's sold well.
I liked the Dynasty, Newyorker and Imperial fwd cars I had but the Dynasty only sold well in fleets like rent a cars and companies that were looking for a deal on company cars, Newyorker's and Imperials never quite beat out the Buick Century, and Park Ave. and its Oldsmobile counterpart the 88 I think.
The LHS, Concorde and Intrepid on the other hand was a different story. The Dynasty and its siblings were relatively easy to work on and the 3.3 for the most part was very reliable and durable I got 269K miles on a 92 Dynasty when I sold it and 215,000 miles on a Newyorker still going strong on just tune ups, oil changes and regular maitnance.
I bought a 93 Trep and 94 Concorde with 3.3's but it wasn't as lively as the 3.5 and could barely get out of its own way, I hated trying to pass people and not being able to if they wanted to be an a hole about it and floor their car to close up the gap, I got the last of the 1st gens both 97's both 3.5's and it was a day and night difference wasn't just a little power increase was a big one, almost comparable with my Ford of equal weight with a sohc v8.
The 3.3 version of the LH cars were just as reliable as my AC/AY body cars and even easier to work on but the power wasn't like that of my AC/AY body car and that bothered me.
I worked with, went to school with and dealed with internet trolls that constantly bashed the Intrepid for this and that because they bought it used, probably needed maitnance and didn't want to do it, and expected their 1500.00 car to never need repair or be easy or cheap to repair but they don't know what it really is they figure it is a domestic car so it has got to be cheap and easy wrong and wrong.
Open the hood and you'll see what your dealing with is not ordinary dissect a 3.5 and you'll be amazed at the quality and durability the bottom end has and the amount of thought put into the motor, how many know about the Neon having the most expensive rods called a cracked rod design.
This is an expensive and unique process that allows the rod to seal against a main bearing better than anything, top hot rodders can tell you it is expensive and one of the best rod designs you can get. Still think Chrysler is the same as it was before? Chrysler evolved but the people buying them or American auto owners are the ones that didn't or couldn't and bashed the brand over and over again for their lack of understanding.
Yikes! Can you break that up into paragraphs? No one wants to read a huge unbroken set of text like that!
Might be part of the annoyance?
Might be part of the annoyance?
I can and do respect the fact you still perform your own maitnance and repair.
Some people don't like a challenge, I love it on the other hand, doesn't mean I always look forward to it though, especially when it gets cold and crappy outside, but I got to do what I got to do and if it is not ideal I got a few other cars in my driveway that I could put to use if I need it.
I have even heard time and time again Chrysler has bad transmissions, hmm well when I ask people why they can't tell me what parts fail causing them to go bad or why one would fail, it is why I come on strong to those guys because if you say something against something I hope you understand it well enough that you really know what the real flaw is, because if you look at all the domestic auto manufacturers Ford and GM they can't make it to 200K even 150K without a trans rebuilt either so how are they are better or worse than a Chrysler?
What part will or wont break on one or the other, because they all end up being fixed and repaired throughout their life, you can not prevent parts from wearing or breaking on a car or truck that gets used and driven day in and out?
I drive past shops and dealerships of all manufacturers that have cars and trucks of all brands on their racks, but one thing I have been P.O'ed with is how people will babble others with BS over facts, because they don't like something or it is just not in their understanding or they refuse to learn about it.
It even happens with auto service professionals as well, they service cars and trucks over and over again but because they are more favorable over one or the other.
It is just human nature I guess.
I have seen websites that say why not to buy a Dodge, but what about why not to buy a GM or why not to buy a Ford with contrary statements.
Even on youtube there are videos of why Dodge sucks with all kinds of different photos of breakage and failure but this stuff happens to other brands as well.
So I do apologize once again for offending you, as you are not one of those guys, the only thing I don't understand about Chevy guys is if their brand of vehicle is so much better than why do they keep attacking everybody else like they got to keep proving it.
If you are the best at what you do or can do then you don't need to make any statement because when the time comes the result will be the proof.
I never needed to boast if I knew my car was faster or better because if they tried me they would see the result. Oh well it is what it is.
So I hope you will continue to visit the forum from time to time and use it for any questions you may have for as long as you have one of these LH cars as we are all in this together in some way shape or form, hell if you lived in Illinois i'd even buy you a beer or two as an offering of peace providing you drink but I think you get the idea.
Also being mechanically inclined isn't always about speed, accuracy is more important the speed develops with repetition of doing the same thing over and over again as you service the vehicle more and more.
Even as time goes by things like rust and time force even the experienced vets of the industry to develop a new technique to avoid breaking or having to replace something unneccesarily.
Sometimes parts just don't want to be removed so you have to remove everything they are attached to and replace it that way, that's the fun of automotive service you never know what you'll get when you dive into something but one way or the other it has to be dealt with either go hard or go home.
The provisions you have make all the difference though, I got different sawzalls, grinders, a decent compressor, a good impact with as high of reverse torque that I could afford, oxy/acc. torches with cutting tips, a heavy duty extinguisher just in case things happen and its always nearby within arms reach, a 1/2 high torque hammer drill for going through hardened bolts, taps and dies, swivel sets, etc and lots of beer in case things get real complicated good thing is the grill is nearby too so anybody that comes and helps will always get fed right too.
I helped my neighbor in recent time with his transmission on his Ford truck, he is a guy trying to get by so its always good when you can help someone in need and that is really the true reason behind forums like this one, sorry your question didn't get answered right away either, hopefully in the longrun there wont be too many issues like that but these cars are a dying breed now a days, I will keep mine till the chassis becomes brittle then I will have to cash it out but I plan on acquiring a Cummins 12 valve Ram 2nd gen in the future to come, I just don't like the look of the latter models as much.
Anyway hope things can remain friendly as I kind of like this forum too, I'd rather encourage more people to come to it than to chase them away from it.
Some people don't like a challenge, I love it on the other hand, doesn't mean I always look forward to it though, especially when it gets cold and crappy outside, but I got to do what I got to do and if it is not ideal I got a few other cars in my driveway that I could put to use if I need it.
I have even heard time and time again Chrysler has bad transmissions, hmm well when I ask people why they can't tell me what parts fail causing them to go bad or why one would fail, it is why I come on strong to those guys because if you say something against something I hope you understand it well enough that you really know what the real flaw is, because if you look at all the domestic auto manufacturers Ford and GM they can't make it to 200K even 150K without a trans rebuilt either so how are they are better or worse than a Chrysler?
What part will or wont break on one or the other, because they all end up being fixed and repaired throughout their life, you can not prevent parts from wearing or breaking on a car or truck that gets used and driven day in and out?
I drive past shops and dealerships of all manufacturers that have cars and trucks of all brands on their racks, but one thing I have been P.O'ed with is how people will babble others with BS over facts, because they don't like something or it is just not in their understanding or they refuse to learn about it.
It even happens with auto service professionals as well, they service cars and trucks over and over again but because they are more favorable over one or the other.
It is just human nature I guess.
I have seen websites that say why not to buy a Dodge, but what about why not to buy a GM or why not to buy a Ford with contrary statements.
Even on youtube there are videos of why Dodge sucks with all kinds of different photos of breakage and failure but this stuff happens to other brands as well.
So I do apologize once again for offending you, as you are not one of those guys, the only thing I don't understand about Chevy guys is if their brand of vehicle is so much better than why do they keep attacking everybody else like they got to keep proving it.
If you are the best at what you do or can do then you don't need to make any statement because when the time comes the result will be the proof.
I never needed to boast if I knew my car was faster or better because if they tried me they would see the result. Oh well it is what it is.
So I hope you will continue to visit the forum from time to time and use it for any questions you may have for as long as you have one of these LH cars as we are all in this together in some way shape or form, hell if you lived in Illinois i'd even buy you a beer or two as an offering of peace providing you drink but I think you get the idea.
Also being mechanically inclined isn't always about speed, accuracy is more important the speed develops with repetition of doing the same thing over and over again as you service the vehicle more and more.
Even as time goes by things like rust and time force even the experienced vets of the industry to develop a new technique to avoid breaking or having to replace something unneccesarily.
Sometimes parts just don't want to be removed so you have to remove everything they are attached to and replace it that way, that's the fun of automotive service you never know what you'll get when you dive into something but one way or the other it has to be dealt with either go hard or go home.
The provisions you have make all the difference though, I got different sawzalls, grinders, a decent compressor, a good impact with as high of reverse torque that I could afford, oxy/acc. torches with cutting tips, a heavy duty extinguisher just in case things happen and its always nearby within arms reach, a 1/2 high torque hammer drill for going through hardened bolts, taps and dies, swivel sets, etc and lots of beer in case things get real complicated good thing is the grill is nearby too so anybody that comes and helps will always get fed right too.
I helped my neighbor in recent time with his transmission on his Ford truck, he is a guy trying to get by so its always good when you can help someone in need and that is really the true reason behind forums like this one, sorry your question didn't get answered right away either, hopefully in the longrun there wont be too many issues like that but these cars are a dying breed now a days, I will keep mine till the chassis becomes brittle then I will have to cash it out but I plan on acquiring a Cummins 12 valve Ram 2nd gen in the future to come, I just don't like the look of the latter models as much.
Anyway hope things can remain friendly as I kind of like this forum too, I'd rather encourage more people to come to it than to chase them away from it.
Ok , everybody has apologized and acknowledges that ALL car manufacturers
have some sort of problems.
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If long term antifreeze exposure to the atmosphere is a problem , then the
bleed hole could be modified in some way to prevent that.
The vehicles that I've looked at so far with this same system use a screw or snap on
cap that has a small pin hole in the center.
How long are you guys thinking it would be a problem with LL antifreeze ?
have some sort of problems.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If long term antifreeze exposure to the atmosphere is a problem , then the
bleed hole could be modified in some way to prevent that.
The vehicles that I've looked at so far with this same system use a screw or snap on
cap that has a small pin hole in the center.
How long are you guys thinking it would be a problem with LL antifreeze ?
Looking back at the original post:
I'm still trying to get my head around the idea that there are 3 cavities. Is there some validity to that? Because I'm not seeing where that is coming from.
A thought: The reservoirs tend to get very cloudy over time, making it generally impossible to read the level from the outside. Is that possibly what was going on there.
When I add coolant to the pressure side of the reservoir - where the level marks are - the level goes up (unless there's a big hole in the system somewhere). If I saw this when it was posted, I may not have responded because what was stated made no sense to me. Perhaps I was waiting for someone who understod it beyond whatever mental block I may have had, yet apparently no-one else understood the situation as described either.
That's the part that threw me. Whether I saw this post back then, I can't say, but if I did, it certainly would have befuddled me because - in my mind - the cavity where you add coolant and the cavity that has the level marks are one and the same, and it was impossible for that to be true, especially if the system otherwise was operating properly. In hind sight, again, *IF* I had seen it, perhaps I should have said that something didn't make sense, and started asking questions.
I'm still trying to get my head around the idea that there are 3 cavities. Is there some validity to that? Because I'm not seeing where that is coming from.
A thought: The reservoirs tend to get very cloudy over time, making it generally impossible to read the level from the outside. Is that possibly what was going on there.
I'm sure you are right. I just never noticed. Perhaps that wall acts as a baffle so that if you are checking the level with the engine running, the flow of fluid thru the "center" chamber doesn't disturb the level indication. Or is the flow thru that part with the level marks? Hmm. Will have to look at that.
Reply from Prestone Tech service ,,
We are not aware of any long term deterioration of coolant based solely on exposure to air. Exposure to air should have no impact on the pH or the consistency of the coolant. As long as the antifreeze is changed according to the standard 5 year, 150,000 mile service interval, there should be no adverse impact on the coolant simply from exposure to the air. Please let me know if you require anything further.
Sincerely,
Aaron Jones
Prestone Consumer Relations Representative
We are not aware of any long term deterioration of coolant based solely on exposure to air. Exposure to air should have no impact on the pH or the consistency of the coolant. As long as the antifreeze is changed according to the standard 5 year, 150,000 mile service interval, there should be no adverse impact on the coolant simply from exposure to the air. Please let me know if you require anything further.
Sincerely,
Aaron Jones
Prestone Consumer Relations Representative
Does Prestone have a HOAT coolant?? Always used MOPAR or G05 with distilled water Prestone has never touched My baby.
I noticed the comments about the large cavity in the coolant reservoir being for 'waste' and non recoverable coolant. My experience (and from the FSM) is that the car will draw coolant from the large section. Seen it happen twice on my Intrepid. I know there is an air gap below the cap in the small section, however I think that it draws some air (when the liquid level initially starts dropping) this forms a suction and then coolant flows from the large section. The air would naturally separate and stay in the upper area of the small cavity.
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