Get the code, that will help alot

 

well you put the seafoam in slower then i did and mine is fine so i dont think thats the problem.

 

Did you guys feel any vibrations or anything I have experienced above? Different muffler sounds?

Gonna go and start the 'trep, see if letting it sit did anything.

I don't have the check engine light tool, maybe I'll see if I can get the 'trep to autzone and have them check what its saying before I leave around 8:30AM... hope they're open that early.

 

Well, went and started the car... still shakes, check engine light's still on. What I find odd is the engine sounds the same as it always has.

I'm wondering whether I should go and let the car idle for longer?

I dunno if I'll be able to fall asleep with this on my mind, argh!

 

where do you live?

 

About an hour NW of Chicago, IL.

Edit: Woodstock, IL to be specific.

 

how much have you driven you car since seafoaming it?

 

What year is your car? Did you do the key dance? I don't know if that works on 1st gens or not if that's what yours is.

 

Did you do the key dance? I don't know if that works on 1st gens or not if that's what yours is.

yeah it works on 1st gens.

 

Mine's a '01 3.2L ES.

I'm assuming I drove it around for about 20 miles.

I did not do the key dance. I'm not familiar as to what that is.

 

works on 1g's, but I believe he has a 2g..

Seafoam is nasty stuff, I used it, fouled my plugs and my o2 sensors.

Also, you are supposed to let it "slurp" the seafoam fluid, not submerge the line in it, the "slurping" action helps break up the fluid by aerate it.

 

I'll be happy if I didn't ruin my engine, that's all I need to hear from somebody. If it fouled my plugs and messed up my o2 sensor, I'd take that anyday over hydrolocking my car.

I've looking trying to find out exactly what hydrolock is, but I haven't gotten a definite answer. On one thread somebody said you would definitely notice when you hydrlocked your car.

Do any of you have an idea as to what I'm describing above sounds like a hydrolock or just another problem that can be fixed? Is my car hydrolocked? I'm sick of that word, I swear, lol.

EDIT: I should have thoroughly read as to how to inject it before I did it, but anyway, I let it slurp, however, I did submerge it a couple of times as well.

 

First I don’t think you hydro-locked it, because due to the velocity of the intake air, I think it’s nearly impossible to hydro-lock it with one cup of seafoam being sucked through that little hose. I think one of two things happened. First I think you may have just screwed with the sensors a little, and it will clear up after a little driving, or possibly by resetting your codes or disconnecting the power for about 20 minutes (that’s just a stab in the dark though). The other is that if the exhaust note changed, and has stayed different and the performance is odd, wheezy, and has now top end power; that sounds like classic signs of a clogged catalectic converter.

 

Sit in the car and turn the key from "off" to "run" 3 times and leave it on run the 3rd time so go off-run-off-run-off-run and your codes will display in the odometer display.

 

I've looking trying to find out exactly what hydrolock is, but I haven't gotten a definite answer. On one thread somebody said you would definitely notice when you hydrlocked your car.

In automotive terminology, a hydrolock is the immobilization of an engine's pistons by a liquid (usually water, hence the prefix "hydro-"). Hydrolocking occurs when liquid fills a cylinder on the intake stroke and, due to the incompressibility of a liquid, makes the compression stroke impossible. This, in turn, prevents the entire engine from turning, and can cause significant engine damage if one attempts to forcibly turn over or start the engine. Typically, connecting rods will be bent, making the engine uneconomical to repair. It is relatively common when driving through floods, either where the water is above the level of the air intake or the vehicle's speed is excessive, creating a tall bow wave.
(Thank you answers.com)

I think there would be a lot of metallic sounding racket under the hood if you had hydro-locked it and bent/broke something.

 

Sleeper, if you are right, I want to thank you, because just knowing my engine isn't gone completely makes me feel 10x better.

It has top end power, the only time the car vibrates is from idle up to the 1800RPM range. I'd notice when driving when I let go of the gas pedal and started accelerating again, I'd feel a vibration until I reached 2000RPM. However, what's odd at higher speeds is the speedometer in shaking 1-2 mph increments.

As to the exhaust sound, maybe I'm just dumb, because I never truly listened to my exhaust until now. Maybe it has always sounded this way.

 

I think you may have a clogged cat. Just a guess. You definitely didn't hydrolock it, your car would not be running and driving if it was hydrolocked.

 

If the “key dance” doesn’t give you what you’re looking for, if I were you I’d just go to Advance, Checker, or Napa and have them run the codes on the car. If it’s flashing the check engine light there’s probably a sensor that isn’t working right at all. Also check and see what your exhaust smells like after it’s reached operating temp. If it smells kid of sweet it’s probably getting the air fuel mixture right; if it smells gassy it’s probably an oxygen sensor or a clogged spark plug; and if it smells like rotten egg it’s probably a clogged catalectic converter.
(Oh and don’t leave your head in front of the exhaust pipe for too long, it’s not healthy.)

 

Well, I'm going to head to bed, have to wake up in around four hours.

I'm extremely relieved that the worst that could have occured, didn't. Thank you both for putting my minds at ease.

I'll drive the car around for a bit tomorrow when I get back home and see if I can make it to Autozone before it closes to see what the check engine light says.

Thanks everybody for all your help, and anyone else that skims trough this thread and has any input or ideas as to what could be happening, I'd love some more input. Thank you.

 

Come on dude. Do the key dance. You got all these people all involved and ready to help you out and you can't go do the simplest thing of all to do?

 

If the “key dance” doesn’t give you what you’re looking for, if I were you I’d just go to Advance, Checker, or Napa and have them run the codes on the car. If it’s flashing the check engine light there’s probably a sensor that isn’t working right at all. Also check and see what your exhaust smells like after it’s reached operating temp. If it smells kid of sweet it’s probably getting the air fuel mixture right; if it smells gassy it’s probably an oxygen sensor or a clogged spark plug; and if it smells like rotten egg it’s probably a clogged catalectic converter.
(Oh and don’t leave your head in front of the exhaust pipe for too long, it’s not healthy.)

I'm going to go try the key dance right now real quick before I head to sleep. If it works, I'll come back with the code. I'll smell the exhaust, might as well while I'm there. And I'll take your advice Seth, LOL!

 

P 1684. That's the code.

Wow, that is a really neat trick. Sorry guys, I should have done that way earlier. I just picked up it wouldn't work on 2nd gens, so I apologize.

 

There ahs to be another code after that. The 1684 is just the battery has been disconnected in the last 50 starts. That won't trigger the light, it jsut gets stored. There's another code related to your problem. It will flash them one after another, and say "done" when there are no more to display.

 

P 0305 was the other code.

I also smelled the exhaust, it smells kind of sweet, as you said sleeper. Is that a good sign?

 

P0305 Code - Cylinder #5 Misfire
I'd pull the plugs and take a look at them...sounds like you fouled the plugs.