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Memory is telling me its a 2.25" inlet pipe.

Some shops wont run exhaust down the pass side because of all the fuel stuff over there, and some will. Thought you might want to know. Oh and keep in mind that stainless like doubles the price or something
 
I know that somewhere on this wonderful website there is sizing for the entire exhaust system for both engines. I just have no idea where it is.
 
ya i think its 2.25 because my flowmaster 40 series was 2.5" so the exhaust shop put a 2.5" pipe over the 2.25 and they welded it. and they did a crappy job welding it, it looks like bird **** smeared over the pipes then painted silver.
 
for street crusier 3.3s- 2.25", 3.5s- 2.5" (single BTW)

for modified stoplight drag attendees & the like 2.5" for all (3.3 if with more mods)

crazy race with big upgrades...2.5" for the 3.3 still, maybe 2.75" for the 3.5

this exhaust was the best performing one i had made for my van, & i changed the exhaust alot of times, 2.5" DP into breif factory 2.25" section, back to 2.5" for like 2 ft, then down to 60mm all the way back, muffler is a late model Accord resonator
Image


i did start another exhaust for the van, but sadly the van is now all apart & going bye bye, so i dunno if this one would out perform the last one....
 
I thought your van was gone man, whats going on over there?

So I can go with 2.5" for my car? Or should I wait for the turbo and maybe go bigger?
 
Chewie, 1st, thats on old pic ;)

2nd..stick with what you got now since your going to turbo anyway

& with turbo, i'd say run 3" till the gas tank then with using a long taper reducer into 2.5" out the back, it'll help keep the noise down a little & you can get away with using a cat & a race bullet to keep weight down

alot people don't take into consideration the amout exhaust gasses cool down in the first 4-5 feet of pipe

you can run well into the 12's on a N/A V8 car with 2.25" tailpipes before they become a noticeble restriction
 
minivanin said:
but sadly the van is now all apart & going bye bye
I thought it was already long gone, your statement implys its still there.

Thanks for the exhaust tips. I want to run duals at the back would you recommend a taper then a Y out the back or something else? Thanks, Exhaust isnt my strong side.
 
i'd say if doing twins

dual 2.5 into a 3" single out the back, but your hellbent on dual outlets, lol (personally i'd say why avertise anything) find a nice Y to split it back up, or just run the dual 2.5s all the way back, throw an X-pipe in there too for good measure

just keep it all mandrel bent
 
I'm doing it in mandrel stainless or not at all. If I do a single turbo it will be a single exhaust with a turn down tucked up under the bumper so you cant see it. If I do twin turbo I'll do a dual exhaust with tips sticking out right behind the rear tires. I dont really care if its true duals or not, I just want a nice balanced look and sound.
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
Can a custom exhaust possibly do damage to a car/engine? is there any real disadvantage other than the cost? If I got a high-flow cat and performance muffler etc can the new exhaust increase mileage and power?

Im having trouble trying to convince my dad to let me do this, ever since I replaced my entire engine (which finished yesturday and i paid for) he keeps acting as though a custom exhaust could make problems or something.
 
a performance exhaust will increase gas mileage (if you keep your foot from enjoying the extra power & better sound), reduce underhood temps a little, & in theory increae engine life, since you reduce some of the work load on the parts, plus the reduced heat

the only real way to hurt engine (exhaust wise) is to run the engine open head with no manifolds...you'll warp the exhaust valves...

or run an exhaust thats more restrictive then stock :fun_84:

basically most exhausts, headers (when applicable) & intakes are the only mods that don't have any ill side effects drivability wise, but while still increasing performance, most computers have enough fuel to support these mods, & it seems like in Mopar land they have plenty

some say aftermarket cams (street, not aggressive) can increase gas mileage (YES on most other popular engines), as well as performance...but considering the trouble you'd have go thru on a 3.3 to install one, you might was well do an engine rebuild & have a more aggressive grind made, while your shelling out the money, & kick up the compression, etc

anyways, thats enough talking/typing for now
 
Chewie, no offense bro but your exhaust clip reminded me of my old ATV Honda work 4wheeler. But with a deeper tone. To me the idle and revving sounds just don't match up right, It idles so deep and choppy and then you rev it and something forces the sound into becoming alittle too raspy. I might throw a resonator in it and see how it changes the sound.
 
Japy said:
Chewie, no offense bro but your exhaust clip reminded me of my old ATV Honda work 4wheeler. But with a deeper tone. To me the idle and revving sounds just don't match up right, It idles so deep and choppy and then you rev it and something forces the sound into becoming alittle too raspy. I might throw a resonator in it and see how it changes the sound.
Which sound clip are you talking about? I've got about a billion of them up now. There was a radical change in the exhaust note when I fixed the plugs. Take a look and let me know.

Cuz, I'm getting tired of explaining this. Sorry, but its really annoying.
 
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